Moving along to completing the outer jacket construction was the pocket placement and installation. Due to my having adjusted the jacket for my height I also changed where the pockets would fall along the side seam. I lowered their placement so that they would be more comfortable for me. Once complete the jacket was then sewn at the shoulder and side seams in preparation for setting in the sleeve. The quality of this picture isn’t the greatest but you can see some of the top stitching I have done along my seam lines as well.
With all the lining and jacket pieces sewn together the next step in the process was tailoring the sleeves. The sleeve cap on the jacket was stabilized and bias cut stripes were fused onto the lower hem with fusible interfacing. The sleeve head was installed according to my previous posting on the lining. The sleeve was then stitched and the hem turned up and sewn in place.
Here is a picture of the shoulder pads that were sewn into my jacket. Due to my various adjustments and the fact that I have complications due to my scoliosis I had to sew in two different thicknesses of pads to make the jacket hang correctly on me. It is more than obvious in this picture due to using two different colored shoulder pads. The left front required a 1” thick pad while the right needed a 1/2” pad. It sounds strange but it works for me and allows the jacket to hang evenly while accounting for me curvature.
With this completed, the jacket and the lining were stitched together along the front edges, the lapel and upper collar areas, seams were graded, pressed and turned. Prior to any topstitching it was necessary to now mark the placement of the opening for the bound buttonhole onto the front facing piece. Here pins were stuck through into the facing and then I marked with chalk onto the facing. A square piece of black organza was stitched, clipped and turned to create the hole for the back side of the bound buttonhole. I think it turned out lovely and no frayed areas!
Next post Part 2-Completing the remainder of the jacket.