tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24050722450708201422024-03-13T09:24:26.491-04:00Mimi OMy adventures, and sometimes mis-adventures in crafting...mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-73950040814832332242012-07-22T10:11:00.001-04:002012-07-22T10:11:59.479-04:00New Look 6123<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9zBr0qLW4E4/UAwKFo-yLMI/AAAAAAAABcQ/2WXNYH44v98/s1600-h/New_Look_6123_vB64.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="New_Look_6123_vB-6" border="0" alt="New_Look_6123_vB-6" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wkOl65Cd5Mo/UAwKGWCS8PI/AAAAAAAABcY/Ztde6mNxdnA/New_Look_6123_vB6_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="532" height="406" /></a> </p> <p>I have been lacking in the sewing department so far this summer.  I had plans for making this particular dress for a wedding back on June 23rd but unfortunately I didn’t get the opportunity to complete it for that day.  I had it cut out and ready to go but a few things popped up, one of them being my daughter.  She was the maid of honor and couldn’t fly in until the Wednesday before the wedding and her dress needed to be altered.  I had to do the alteration on Thursday so that she would have her dress to take up to the location site on Friday morning.  The alterations entailed three layers of fabric, one of them being chiffon, not my most favorite fabric to sew on; there was some removing of boning and adjusting seams and placing the boning back as well.  The alterations took a wee bit longer than I had anticipated so I didn’t get to the sewing of this dress until after the wedding.  Which works out because I  have another wedding next week that I needed a dress for as well and this will do nicely.</p> <p>Here are a few pictures that I took with the new Nikon DSLR using a tripod and remote.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-daCVfzk1_70/UAwKG5lwuEI/AAAAAAAABcg/lncE4erLTww/s1600-h/New_Look_6123_vB47.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="New Look 6123, View B" border="0" alt="New Look 6123, View B" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZFrfvH96x4Q/UAwKHlnd5FI/AAAAAAAABco/_9pxDG8Oyg8/New_Look_6123_vB4_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="321" height="457" /></a> </p> <p>Lola wanted to get in on the picture taking act.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_FkdBLtFkwg/UAwKIOKox9I/AAAAAAAABcw/Ow9YPpMqymk/s1600-h/New_Look_6123_vB34.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="New Look 6123, View B" border="0" alt="New Look 6123, View B" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RbIESMxJblw/UAwKIiFX8xI/AAAAAAAABc4/cqT5DW3H32Y/New_Look_6123_vB3_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="316" height="458" /></a> </p> <p>Close-up of the side drape detail and left bodice.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pwqb8KGODh4/UAwKJGF5o_I/AAAAAAAABdA/VTZTSL28hKk/s1600-h/New_Look_6123_vB53.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="New Look 6123, View B" border="0" alt="New Look 6123, View B" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oesyUShevaw/UAwKKpEfuGI/AAAAAAAABdI/cJgEpXG0EA8/New_Look_6123_vB5_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="312" height="456" /></a> </p> <p>A review of this pattern for Pattern Review:</p> <p><strong>PR:</strong> New Look 6123</p> <p><strong>Pattern Description:</strong> Misses’ Dress in four versions</p> <p><strong>Fabric Used:</strong> Ponte Knit</p> <p><strong>Pattern Size:</strong> 16</p> <p><strong>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</strong> Yes</p> <p><strong>Were the instructions easy to follow?</strong> I didn’t use the directions but looking them over they seemed fine.</p> <p><strong>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</strong> I liked this pattern and ease of construction. I used an invisible zipper and that worked out nicely once I got that technique down. All these years of sewing and this is only the second time I have used an invisible zip.</p> <p><strong>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: </strong>The adjustments I made to this pattern were: I added 2” to the length of the skirt and drape, dropped the bust ¾” and moved the dart accordingly, made separate back pieces to accommodate for adjustments due to my scoliosis, eliminated the front and back facings and fully lined the upper portion of the dress as well as a full skirt lining.</p> <p><strong>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</strong> Yes, I would sew this pattern again and would probably make a combination version using the dress from View D with View A sleeves.</p> <p><strong>Conclusion:</strong> A quick dress to construct that can be used as a formal or casual look depending on your fabric choice.</p> <p><strong></strong></p> <p><strong>Flickr Photostream: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mimiohs/sets/72157630693110302/" target="_blank">New Look 6123</a></strong></p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><strong></strong></p> <p><strong></strong></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1sdhdwvcmD8/UAwKLM-guhI/AAAAAAAABdQ/W_hWAKfd2jo/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZFG8pnXYhzw/UAwKLhobHvI/AAAAAAAABdY/IBOZu2M0Lko/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="97" height="35" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-10116822887907977012012-05-25T19:10:00.001-04:002012-05-25T20:33:36.850-04:00All Things Princess…<p>Here you will find all the posts related to the Princess Slip pattern <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> from the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> that  was sewn for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a><a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Click on the image and you will be taken to the VPLL website and pattern for the Princess Slip # 0336." border="0" alt="Click on the image and you will be taken to the VPLL website and pattern for the Princess Slip # 0336." align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3L-NmYxXt8E/T8ARfR747NI/AAAAAAAABb0/wF2PatjFxfM/E0336_SLIPw1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="154" height="442" /></a>.  Enjoy!!!</p> <ul> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/pattern-drafting-princess-slip-and.html" target="_blank">Pattern Drafting the Princess Slip and 1910’s Corset</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/adjusting-princess-slip-for-me-myself-i.html" target="_blank">Adjusting the Princess Slip for Me, Myself & I</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"> <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/slip-basics-insertion-embroidery.html" target="_blank">Slip Basics, Insertion & Embroidery</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/tale-of-two-backs.html" target="_blank">A Tale of Two Backs… !#$%</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/front-meets-back-and-other-pretty.html" target="_blank">Front Meets Back and Other Pretty Things…</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/flounce-from-hell-and-other.html" target="_blank">The Flounce From Hell and Other Unmentionable Adjectives…</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/flouncing-around.html" target="_blank">Flouncing Around</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/princess-revealed.html" target="_blank">A Princess Revealed</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/vpll-review-for-princess-slip-0336.html" target="_blank">A VPLL Review for Princess Slip # 0336</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/75663" target="_blank">Pattern Review</a></h5> </li> <li> <h5 align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mimiohs/sets/72157629893771002/" target="_blank">Flickr Photostream for Princess Slip # 0336</a></h5> </li> </ul> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YDs-ufExRV0/T8ARvh3PlaI/AAAAAAAABb8/3QO5CHZJcMU/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xf_POHWWbRo/T8ARwa_eVrI/AAAAAAAABcE/7Jbhyxvnls4/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="145" height="52" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-85773481859815760772012-05-25T18:52:00.001-04:002012-05-25T18:52:53.226-04:00VPLL Review for Princess Slip # 0336<p><a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="E0336_SLIPw" border="0" alt="E0336_SLIPw" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xCVOAjote6g/T8ANOqfFRBI/AAAAAAAABbI/pbTZvhVX2C8/E0336_SLIPw.jpg?imgmax=800" width="148" height="400" /></a> </p> <ol> <li><strong>Pattern Name:  </strong>Princess Slip <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> <br /></li> <li><strong>Sewer’s Skill Level:  </strong>Advanced <br /></li> <li><strong>Pattern Rating:  </strong>I would rate this pattern a 4.  It was fairly easy to put together, the insertion lace and pleating are what make this project more challenging.  I enjoyed sewing it and would probably make this again in the future but with a more modern flare to it.  After seeing how my slip came out I would even consider sewing one as a wedding dress by adding a pastel colored slip under it to match the ribbon used on the slip.  I kept my version as close to the original except for alterations. <br /></li> <li><strong>What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? </strong>My personal feeling as to who could sew this slip;  I feel it is intended for someone with at least some basic sewing experience under their belt.  The pattern itself is very easy to sew consisting of four main pieces and could be put together quickly without any difficulties.  Where this pattern is for the more experienced sewer is with the lace insertion techniques along with the pleating. <br /></li> <li><strong>Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? <br /></strong>Honestly, I really didn’t follow the instructions but in reading the directions that came with the pattern they followed a natural progression through the making of the garment.  One step that I would change was that I found it easier to do the insertion lace on the upper side front pieces first prior to sewing the front princess seams.  Additionally, a better description on how to sew the front and back princess seams and in dealing with the points would be helpful to beginner sewers.  I mentioned this in my post <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/slip-basics-insertion-embroidery.html" target="_blank">Slip Basics, Insertion & Embroidery</a>.  I also found the directions for attaching the flounce to be a bit repetitive and found it easier to attach the flounce in the manner I chose in the post <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/flouncing-around.html" target="_blank">Flouncing Around.</a>  I believe stitching the flounce directly to the slip and then placing the insertion lace over the seam to be a bit bulky and a lot of extra sewing the gets taken out.  My method seemed easier.  I also preferred using 1/4” double-fold bias binding on the armhole instead of just turning the seam allowance under for it made for a cleaner finish. <br /></li> <li><strong>How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought? <br /></strong>The fit and sizing were ok but I adjusted for my measurements.  The pattern illustration leads you to believe that the slip is fitted at the top above the bust but I found, as with other participants, there to be excess fabric here that gets drawn up with the eyelet trim. <br /></li> <li><strong>Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations? <br /></strong>I adjusted this pattern for my sizing increasing the bust and making other adjustments to accommodate my back.  A more detailed description of these adjustments can be found in the post <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/adjusting-princess-slip-for-me-myself-i.html" target="_blank">Adjusting the Princess Slip for Me, Myself & I</a>.  As with other participants that sewed this pattern, they too found that there was too much fabric around the neckline.  Of course, without any alterations to the pattern, this extra fabric would allow for a range of bust sizes to fit the pattern.  That could be the original intent of the designer being as this was published in a magazine to be utilized by the masses.  In my muslin fitting stage I also didn’t like the placement of the side seams and the shoulder seams, both being more towards the back and I adjusted the pattern to bring them back on center for the sides and forward on the shoulder.  I also created facings for the center back placket being as I did not like how the original<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ez7txCR4lOc/T8ANPRgc65I/AAAAAAAABbQ/cPuIpHRZrpI/s1600-h/princessslip505.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="princess slip-50" border="0" alt="princess slip-50" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cTb3mwTFUJA/T8ANP5CX4zI/AAAAAAAABbU/NOCK6iC-Kz4/princessslip50_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="234" height="337" /></a> directions handled the closure.  A detailed description of this can be found on my post <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/tale-of-two-backs.html" target="_blank">A Tale of Two Backs</a>.  The alterations were made to make the pattern fit more comfortably for me while maintaining the original design qualities. <br /></li> <li><strong>Other notes: <br /></strong>The pattern directions offer a notation to a resource for an excellent tutorial on how to make accordion pleats, while this notation is helpful it would be better to have this information placed within the slip directions being as not everyone has access to the book or can afford to buy an additional resource to complete the slip. <br /></li> <li><strong>Materials Used & Cost: <br /></strong><em>Sometimes it is helpful to know how much someone paid to make a project in order to decide if that would make a feasible project for themselves.  For this project you could spend a considerable amount of money on the insertion lace if you wanted to stick with totally authentic materials.  I, on the other hand, tried to create a nice garment while staying within a reasonable budget.  What follows is my breakdown of materials and cost (cost includes sale prices received and sales tax).</em>  <em>I only priced the slip for what materials were utilized not for a whole package or yardage that was purchased. <br /></em> <table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="522"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="center"><strong><font size="3">Size</font></strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="164"> <p align="center"><strong><font size="3">Description</font></strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="123"> <p align="center"><strong><font size="3">Use</font></strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center"><strong><font size="3">Yardage</font></strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="center"><strong><font size="3">Cost</font></strong></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="70"> <p align="center">1 1/2”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="161">Double Scalloped Edge Lace</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Insertion</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">7</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 9.64</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">3/4”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="160">Cluny Lace</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Insertion</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">5 1/2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 7.57</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1 1/2”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Scallop Rose Lace</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Armhole Trim</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">1 1/2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 4.80</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">5/8”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Cluny Eyelet Trim</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Neckline Trim</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">1 1/2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 6.23</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">3/8”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Pink Satin Ribbon</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Insertion</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">7</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 2.42</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1/8”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Pink Satin Ribbon</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Neck/Armhole</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">3</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 0.16</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1 1/2”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Pink Satin Ribbon</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Neckline, gathered</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">3</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 1.25</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1/4”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Cream Satin Ribbon</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Neckline, Finish</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">1 1/2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 0.08</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1/4”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Double-Fold Bias Binding</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Armhole Finish</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">1 1/2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$ 0.78</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">36”</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Muslin</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Slip & Flounce</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">7</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$  7.28</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">1/2 pkg.</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Fuse N’ Tear</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Embroidery</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66" align="right">$  2.18</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">2</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Hook & Eye</td> <td valign="top" width="123">Slip Closure</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66" align="right">$ 0.17</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">10</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">5/8” Buttons <br /><em>from Great-Grandma Nettie’s Button Tin</em></td> <td valign="top" width="123">Slip Closure</td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66" align="right">$  0.00</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Beige Thread <br /><em>from personal stash</em></td> <td valign="top" width="123"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$  0.00</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="159">Pink Embroidery Thread <br /><em>from personal stash</em></td> <td valign="top" width="123"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="96"> <p align="center">-</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right">$  0.00</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="69"> </td> <td valign="top" width="159"> </td> <td valign="top" width="123"> </td> <td valign="top" width="96"><strong>Total Cost:</strong></td> <td valign="top" width="66"> <p align="right"><strong>$ 42.56</strong></p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <br /></li> <li><strong>Final Thoughts: <br /></strong>This was a fun project which took more time than I anticipated.  My best estimate as to time expended was approximately 44 hours over a two month time period.  Now that I have completed this project and have discovered the pitfalls that happened with me, at some point in the future, I will make this pattern again as a modern day dress or wedding gown.   It is my hope other participants in the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a> will give the Princess Slip Pattern <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> a shot and make something wonderful from it.  There have been many beautiful projects so far…looking forward to many more. </li> </ol> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Jhbawc5J76I/T8ANQb18JfI/AAAAAAAABbg/TGqTP9pFRUE/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-e_Bn3LjWTCQ/T8ANRCOBOQI/AAAAAAAABbo/6IHuCp-6QaE/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="136" height="49" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-16233569481425145132012-05-25T07:31:00.001-04:002012-05-25T07:31:12.090-04:00A Princess Revealed<p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wcy98yhjd7Y/T79tWryoRLI/AAAAAAAABZU/fm4y5MTiRwk/s1600-h/princessslip504.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Princess Slip Front" border="0" alt="Princess Slip Front" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-G3Jv9B6i1hE/T79tXGg54ZI/AAAAAAAABZc/41GumjiL5W0/princessslip50_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="194" height="283" /></a> Behold, my PRINCESS SLIP revealed.  It is good to finally have this project complete and under my belt.  For all the ups and downs I do believe the slip turned out wonderfully.  You can find the Princess Slip Pattern <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> on the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> site and can join up to be a test sewer at the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a>.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dLU0jgJRpPY/T79tXoSC4iI/AAAAAAAABZk/odXqv005oMU/s1600-h/princessslip512.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Princess Slip Front" border="0" alt="Princess Slip Front" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lDm--ijno8s/T79tX99hIAI/AAAAAAAABZs/k03i2NpWC84/princessslip51_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JPukO5LvW0Q/T79tYvCPXRI/AAAAAAAABZ0/S6FWj1RnZKY/s1600-h/princessslip522.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Close-Up of Front on Princess Slip" border="0" alt="Close-Up of Front on Princess Slip" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nvtQG-gfzkQ/T79tY9KpiuI/AAAAAAAABZ8/LskwbfG-FXs/princessslip52_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nJOAKGPgEi0/T79tZXdtvwI/AAAAAAAABaE/fq0FrspON08/s1600-h/princessslip542.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Back of Princess Slip" border="0" alt="Back of Princess Slip" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lcojNnrL2lo/T79tZuIncqI/AAAAAAAABaM/gV9pnOJokUM/princessslip54_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QBdy7PyPB3E/T79taeDfnvI/AAAAAAAABaU/m5eUo9Isk6I/s1600-h/princessslip532.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Flounce of the Princess Slip" border="0" alt="Flounce of the Princess Slip" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pZHs4EM-kUk/T79tagAvAqI/AAAAAAAABac/L-FhvEStCTk/princessslip53_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fACVkyCiMJ8/T79te7jgv2I/AAAAAAAABak/4L8OMDvqwmU/s1600-h/princessslip552.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Up-Close of Back of Princess Slip" border="0" alt="Up-Close of Back of Princess Slip" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7G-vgvE-mzM/T79tfF8h3SI/AAAAAAAABas/5w5DJn5BkCI/princessslip55_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-50mX9JdLX4Q/T79tfsB8g1I/AAAAAAAABaw/VvP4vEmu9Hk/s1600-h/MimiO_2.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-kfMS3xLsmU8/T79tf3QArgI/AAAAAAAABa4/TpWFHAEr9sw/MimiO_2_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="166" height="64" /></a> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-17765922305789798202012-05-24T11:26:00.001-04:002012-05-24T11:32:55.885-04:00Flouncing Around<p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0_COK_D9NiY/T75TEYWSZbI/AAAAAAAABV8/BBpjtMUGoeo/s1600-h/princessslip393.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Tucking the flounce into the pleating board, pressed and cooled." border="0" alt="Tucking the flounce into the pleating board, pressed and cooled." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1cbfv5hUqcM/T75TEs-QjII/AAAAAAAABWE/oPoRBuf1cns/princessslip39_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>I am finally getting close to having the Princess Slip <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> for the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a> complete.  The flounce has been a major contributor to increasing the amount of time spent on this project.  Having completed my homemade pleating board I proceeded to pleat the flounce.  In the pictures below you can see that my board was wide enough to fit the width of the flounce.  Starting at one edge <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4nnXV4QSG4U/T75TFEHk0HI/AAAAAAAABWM/-989hP3V3i0/s1600-h/princessslip403.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="After removing the section from the board I pinned the section to the ironing board and repressed and cooled." border="0" alt="After removing the section from the board I pinned the section to the ironing board and repressed and cooled." align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yA-48tiA7Os/T75TFT4aUsI/AAAAAAAABWU/IEGuOVtZsBQ/princessslip40_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>of the board I careful tucked the flounce into the pleats and then pressed them down.  To aid in making sure the fabric was all the way into the pleat I used my metal ruler to slide in between and then pressed and moved the ruler down the pleat and then moved on to the next pleat.  Once that area had been pleated the fabric was removed, pinned and pressed again on the ironing board.  All pleating was allowed to cool completely before moving onto the next section of flounce.</p> <p>   </p> <p>Here is the 17” wide flounce with all the pleats pressed in.   I re-stitched the flounce at the top so that the pleats would not open up while the flounce was being attached to the slip.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DnVVNK2qMWI/T75TGP1cYSI/AAAAAAAABWc/jAaMjNrUgR4/s1600-h/princessslip382.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="17" Pleated Flounce." border="0" alt="17" Pleated Flounce." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LF_smArIOuc/T75TGjHbykI/AAAAAAAABWk/vT7QWe7pa_U/princessslip38_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-SIkdGQEbk08/T75TG9CY59I/AAAAAAAABWs/y0xFznc6D_I/s1600-h/princessslip412.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Stitching pleats down at the top." border="0" alt="Stitching pleats down at the top." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qRCUmmA2sUs/T75THXgX9rI/AAAAAAAABW0/1NID-QZjSIo/princessslip41_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QDioZheCFp0/T75TH9FfUTI/AAAAAAAABW8/zOyeq3PyBDw/princessslip423.jpg?imgmax=800"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Pinning and stitching the 3/4" border="0" alt="Pinning and stitching the 3/4" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wkvEpZ9lFNo/T75TIJ7K6HI/AAAAAAAABXE/aa1Gq2QlkvI/princessslip42_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" insertion="insertion" lace="lace" to="to" the="the" lower="lower" slip="slip" edge.?="edge.?" /></a>Being as I really didn’t follow the directions I also veered away from that again when it came to attaching the flounce at the base of the slip.  Having previously serged all raw edges on my slip pieces the lower edge of the slip was already finished and ready for stitching on the insertion.  The 3/4” insertion was laid out on the right side of  my slip and stitched down.  The raw-finished hem was turned under and stitched as if you were following the regular insertion directions.  </p> <p>Next, I used Myrna and my metal rulers to get the measurements I needed to transfer over to the flounce.  In the second picture below you can see where I ran a pinned line  to mark off where I’d need to stitch the flounce on.  I did not immediately match this up to the slip base instead I ran a line of straight stitching along the marked out pin line and then went back and serged the excess flounce fabric off.</p> <p>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vLVOmo9NAIA/T75TIlG3-3I/AAAAAAAABXM/w8DvcBV3l5M/s1600-h/princessslip432.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Myrna and the slip getting measured up for the flounce." border="0" alt="Myrna and the slip getting measured up for the flounce." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VmQ8yG5x-v4/T75TJNzRIUI/AAAAAAAABXU/cb-nRMCE-TE/princessslip43_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EChT4JVUA5w/T75TJpxxgPI/AAAAAAAABXc/-CpXtrVJs4M/s1600-h/princessslip442.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The measurements transferred onto the 17" flounce. The pinned line is where the flounce will get sewn, trimmed and attached to the slip base." border="0" alt="The measurements transferred onto the 17" flounce. The pinned line is where the flounce will get sewn, trimmed and attached to the slip base." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0CywIdrkrRY/T75TKIXoRTI/AAAAAAAABXk/tbOMBnmNyTs/princessslip44_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  </p> <p>The flounce was pinned onto the base of the slip again.</p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-InBe3NlKHnM/T75TKo_cvPI/AAAAAAAABXs/2q4MOjDGe1U/s1600-h/princessslip452.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Pin testing the cut-down flounce." border="0" alt="Pin testing the cut-down flounce." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qMUocK9KGeg/T75TK6Gk44I/AAAAAAAABX0/1jfVhlVUKgI/princessslip45_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Fh6Y-RvN6Rs/T75TLuZ99GI/AAAAAAAABX8/0LTSw0oUxjY/s1600-h/princessslip462.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Pin testing the cut-down flounce." border="0" alt="Pin testing the cut-down flounce." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-WniWsWCJq1c/T75TMFoOVHI/AAAAAAAABYE/SPWZglC4CDc/princessslip46_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>Below is another picture showing that I further fine tuned the flounce down some more using the same process with Myrna and the rulers as before.  The measurements were once again transferred to the flounce and a line of straight stitching with serging the excess fabric off took place. </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OxKb63At4D8/T75TMnyzqwI/AAAAAAAABYM/jjnQZ_b6PUI/s1600-h/princessslip472.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The slip need further shortening. Pinned measurements were transferred, straight stitching and serging excess fabric off. " border="0" alt="The slip need further shortening. Pinned measurements were transferred, straight stitching and serging excess fabric off. " src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NrtkC9I1a2Y/T75TNB03X8I/AAAAAAAABYU/zFf0w8OkRC0/princessslip47_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-HvGOddzAmv4/T75TNYAAqFI/AAAAAAAABYc/4UBeHm_AfC8/s1600-h/princessslip482.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Straight stitcing the marked hem adjustment to the flounce." border="0" alt="Straight stitcing the marked hem adjustment to the flounce." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OKMzKXvCDbY/T75TNv90sTI/AAAAAAAABYk/Gjqqz83v50E/princessslip48_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qT_pLxhauLg/T75TOaJpFBI/AAAAAAAABYs/yRKXUZM032A/s1600-h/princessslip49%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Myrna in her final fitting." border="0" alt="Myrna in her final fitting." align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IjqV6j0jrYQ/T75TOmLvVQI/AAAAAAAABY0/3w7PcjF13Bw/princessslip49_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="214" height="311" /></a>This was one of the more tedious processes with this pattern.  Extreme patience and time is required when dealing with the flounce.  The efforts are well worth all the fussiness with getting the fit for the length correct.  </p> <p>Here is the final fitting on Myrna.  It was so beautiful out that I couldn’t resist placing a blanket on our deck table and taking Myrna outside for her final fitting.  I just needed to make 1/4” adjustments in how the flounce hung prior to stitching to the base of the slip.  Once the final adjustments were complete the right side of the flounce was pinned to the lower edge of the 3/4” insertion lace and stitched down from the right side.  The raw edge of the flounce was turned back on the wrong side of the fabric and stitched. Thus finishing the slip.   </p> <p>For other individuals sewing this pattern I would recommend <strong><u>NOT</u></strong> cutting your flounce out until you have completed the upper portion of the slip and measured off how wide of a flounce you will need.  I found having the flounce cut out at 17” wide to be an extreme waste of fabric.  Of course with all that excess width you can adjust your slip for the desired length but that then creates the fussy adjustments that I had to make above.   That fussiness compounded by the pleating.  Because I wanted my slip 5-6” off the ground my final finished flounce, as attached to the slip, was 10” wide.  It would have been much easier to have the flounce cut at an 11-12” width then discarding all the wasted fabric I did in adjusting the 17” flounce.</p> <p>Join Myrna and myself for the final reveal in the the next post.</p> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jSGiiv4vTwM/T75TPLa5asI/AAAAAAAABY8/jSVGtnZj4Ow/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1aKWYDAZMOU/T75TPVm5RbI/AAAAAAAABZE/Ewez34SsrLk/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="167" height="60" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-59417782488941659482012-05-23T06:26:00.001-04:002012-05-23T06:26:02.486-04:00The Flounce From Hell and Other Unmentionable Adjectives…<p>Being a lady of  modern times I hold no qualms in calling this portion of the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 sewing project</a> on the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hVpTOtcYgsY/T7y7Hzct1wI/AAAAAAAABUI/t1TWgLZOqFw/s1600-h/princessslip323.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The flounce with the insertion lace sewn on, showing the tear-away stabilizer ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric." border="0" alt="The flounce with the insertion lace sewn on, showing the tear-away stabilizer ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-k5mzX9aueww/T7y7IaZ31wI/AAAAAAAABUQ/m9BTLmNTstM/princessslip32_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>princess slip, The Flounce From Hell.  I use this as a term of “endearment”…NOT…for this particular stage in the process of completing my slip.</p> <p>As you may recall I mentioned in a <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/tale-of-two-backs.html" target="_blank">previous post</a> that there were TWO moments in this project in which I became completely frustrated and wanted to just run to a corner and cry my eyes out.  This is the second one!!!</p> <p>Things were moving in the right direction.  I cut the flounce out according to the directions, stitched one seam<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-frHGi8d8VJ4/T7y7I2FG47I/AAAAAAAABUY/RxJFd3d_wNQ/s1600-h/princessslip334.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The flounce with the lace inserted and the embroidery being stitched on each side of the lace." border="0" alt="The flounce with the lace inserted and the embroidery being stitched on each side of the lace." align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JEXWyfHoNnk/T7y7Jm4xvnI/AAAAAAAABUg/YPpWleZNgwI/princessslip33_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> together, pressed that open and top-stitched the seams down.   I finished off the remaining raw edges with the serger.  I installed the 1 1/2” insertion lace and embroidered on both sides of the lace.  The tear-away stabilizer was removed, which took a considerable amount of time.  Not wanting to accidentally ruin the lace insertion I developed a safe method for clipping open my insertion.  Because my lace was 1 1/2” wide I could fit my flat, 12”, metal ruler in between the layers and clip the seams open without any accidental miss-clips into the lace.  If you have a narrower lace as your insertion I would </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rWEmCrLoFuo/T7y7KBmLAHI/AAAAAAAABUo/FDrRPiC_xUQ/s1600-h/princessslip34%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Clipping the insertion lace safely by using my metal ruler." border="0" alt="Clipping the insertion lace safely by using my metal ruler." align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AA5jnSrJZy4/T7y7Ksq7kTI/AAAAAAAABUw/UQUDMVmQIVE/princessslip34_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a></p> <p>suggest cutting a piece of poster board an 1/8” less and approximately 12” long to slide in between the layers to protect your lace while clipping open.</p> <p>Here is where things turned horribly wrong.  I spent a good portion of one afternoon (4-5 hours) pleating my flounce.  I stopped at the half-way point and compared it to my lower slip measurement and was literally crushed to find that it wouldn’t cover the slip measurement.  No matter how one figured it out I could not get 1” knife pleats into the flounce and have it match the measurement at the lower slip.  Dejected I went back to the drawing board and analyzed my options.  </p> <p>First up…pressing all those pleats out and hoping they wouldn’t show too badly once the flounce was pleated again.  One just has to sit there and shake their head at such a goof!!!  Second, I hopped online and checked pleating out and discovered that I would NEVER have enough flounce for 1” knife pleats given the cutting requirements the pattern gave you; for one pleat I would need three inches of fabric in order to pleat the flounce as I’d like.  My recommendation to future participants that want to sew this slip is to make the upper portion of the slip first and once complete, measure the lower edge where your flounce will be sewn.  Once you have that figure add 3” and then multiply that figure by 3.  This should give you enough flounce for 1” knife pleats to match your lower slip edge plus a little extra to close the seam. </p> <p>In trying to dig myself out of this dilemma I had considered cutting another length of flounce to add on to give me the required measurement I’d needed for 1” knife pleats but sadly I did not have enough of my insertion lace.  I finally settled on taking 1/2” pleats with a distance of one inch between the folded edge of the pleats.  Not exactly the look I wanted but it would have to suffice.</p> <p>Next…I was NOT going back to sitting and pinning the pleats on my ironing board again.  Over a two hour period I created 24” wide pleating board.  Below are some pictures of the process.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9stMKrm7VXw/T7y7LMb2ZeI/AAAAAAAABU4/sCQ5yQktoSs/s1600-h/princessslip353.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Marked interfacing/muslin piece ready to be straight stitched." border="0" alt="Marked interfacing/muslin piece ready to be straight stitched." align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HU_tZlfpmkU/T7y7LotfifI/AAAAAAAABVA/CshJRnw5e9k/princessslip35_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>      A quickie explanation.  I purchased some heavy, fusible craft interfacing meant for bags.  I marked off the lines for my pleats in pencil and then fused the fabric to some muslin.  I then stitched along my penciled lines which will help you when you go to fold your pleats.  I folded the pleats, pressed firmly and then stitched on the outside edges to keep the pleats in place.  I cut a piece of poster board the measurement of my finished pleating board.  I sprayed adhesive to one side of the board and covered that with some muslin folding the raw edges over to the wrong side.  I then sprayed the wrong side of the board and very, carefully pressed my pleated piece onto the board and smoothed it out.  Viola….instant pleating board.  It wasn’t perfect but made it a lot easier to pleat the flounce.  Added bonus…the adjectives that were flying furiously earlier were now few and far between.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-w1n2c6Mgfyc/T7y7MMpeWcI/AAAAAAAABVI/Mvuk1pfF1hc/s1600-h/princessslip362.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Straight stitching completed." border="0" alt="Straight stitching completed." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SMeaA5UJ-3M/T7y7MqyQeNI/AAAAAAAABVQ/83Qk9BMCmYA/princessslip36_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hiU72KUFZNo/T7y7NOktsbI/AAAAAAAABVY/g-E6WKkpIQk/s1600-h/princessslip372.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Folding along the stitched lines and then pressing in the fold." border="0" alt="Folding along the stitched lines and then pressing in the fold." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zRzZ0nt7lf4/T7y7NrGDhMI/AAAAAAAABVg/-EbIAKMDJsY/princessslip37_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a></p> <p>With this disaster in the making diverted and my sanity restored, I commenced to pleat my flounce.  The results will be shown in my next post. </p> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eN_C49uyDUI/T7y7NzG5GMI/AAAAAAAABVo/Tadzj9RZeCA/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wxUnbLiHQAw/T7y7OQ4NitI/AAAAAAAABVw/bBkSlX8r854/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="133" height="48" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-16614688754545334942012-05-22T06:04:00.001-04:002012-05-23T09:43:45.058-04:00Front Meets Back and Other Pretty Things…<p>Having survived the drama associated with my center back placket (see the <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/05/tale-of-two-backs.html" target="_blank">Tale of Two Backs</a>), work continued with getting the Front and Back together on my princess slip <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 sewing project</a>.  I was looking forward to this part in the process because the results were yielding a wearable garment.</p> <p>The shoulder seams were stitched and the edges on the neckline were turned under and catch-stitched down.  I used a 5/8” wide eyelet trim with 1/8'” satin ribbon woven into it.  The trim was pinned in place and machined stitched down doing the edge furthest from the neckline first.  I then worked the corners of the front and back so that the eyelet would lay properly and not catch the ribbon when the neck edge was stitched down.  Some other participants mitered their corners but I found this wasn’t necessary by pinning out the excess fabric.</p> <p>The pattern calls for placing 1 1/2” gathered lace at the neckline but I found that to be to “Fru-Fruie” for my taste and instead purchased a 1 1/2” wide satin ribbon that was folded and gathered with two rows of basting stitches.  I doubled the measurement of the neckline for the ribbon, marked the center, turned under the raw edges prior to running my basting stitches.  I matched the center of the ribbon to the center front and matched the edges to the finished placket edges and distributed the gathers evenly.  You really need to take your time during this process so you don’t accidentally break your basting.  It takes a while but is all worth the time expended in the looks of the final garment.  Here I hand stitched the ribbon to the neckline edge and then covered the raw edge with 1/4” satin ribbon which I also hand stitched down.  Below are photos of this process.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NLUEpDmOXw0/T7tkiT4uSYI/AAAAAAAABR0/utgrkPVM2oY/s1600-h/princessslip272.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="1/4" satin ribbon being stitched over the raw edge of the gathered ribbon." border="0" alt="1/4" satin ribbon being stitched over the raw edge of the gathered ribbon." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gqNG_RsT1y0/T7tkjIYDTRI/AAAAAAAABR8/nLHRDNxOZS4/princessslip27_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-76KGJusx7Tc/T7tkjhS_wWI/AAAAAAAABSA/A3mbsqyFzno/s1600-h/princessslip282.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="All nice and tidy on the wrong side." border="0" alt="All nice and tidy on the wrong side." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aFJBty4ltKc/T7tkke4_dTI/AAAAAAAABSI/pYGXldJgi3Q/princessslip28_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>Here is the finished results at the neckline showing the gathered ribbon, eyelet trim and the added embroidery.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-U5cYq_Qo-Yg/T7tklDhPFwI/AAAAAAAABSU/wEuQDePwTiU/s1600-h/princessslip232.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The finished front of the princess slip." border="0" alt="The finished front of the princess slip." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7ZE38nLHlVw/T7tklsTQyfI/AAAAAAAABSc/f_9XB7vjWv8/princessslip23_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Gxx_hUdpxxU/T7tkmYkRzjI/AAAAAAAABSk/uxAm4B53HjU/s1600-h/princessslip242.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Up close showing the embroidery, eyelet trim and gathered ribbon." border="0" alt="Up close showing the embroidery, eyelet trim and gathered ribbon." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0lQ45AvZO9U/T7tkmg-l2hI/AAAAAAAABSs/Xa2EIiiWX1o/princessslip24_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>The finished back.  The final button was stitched on as well as hooks and eyes to keep the top closed.  <br />Just beautiful!!!</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4Ci3_Iz2v9w/T7tknZGSq5I/AAAAAAAABS0/tQ4JeNTyOzU/s1600-h/princessslip252.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="princess slip-25" border="0" alt="princess slip-25" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--WWp3Lf1Slw/T7tknwJXoTI/AAAAAAAABS8/SMYH69ZBYZo/princessslip25_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>The side seams were then stitched and pressed open.  The raw edge of the armhole was finished with a 1/4” double-fold bias binding.  Here the armhole called for 1 1/2” gathered lace but I was not fond of that idea either.  I found a lovely 1 1/2'” flat, lace.  Even though the lace was not intended to have ribbon woven through it I wove the 1/8” satin ribbon through it and hand stitched it to the armhole. </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IllUMhMV8bA/T7tkoqCePmI/AAAAAAAABTE/DBQgxqLjNiU/s1600-h/princessslip292.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Bound armhole with 1/4" double-fold bias tape." border="0" alt="Bound armhole with 1/4" double-fold bias tape." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-scLOG-4mV4E/T7tkpt9ybuI/AAAAAAAABTM/oea218VmLFU/princessslip29_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-jglFzxGhuDM/T7tkrR0ZwwI/AAAAAAAABTU/t0VLAh0Qk-4/s1600-h/princessslip302.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Weaving the ribbon through the 1 1/2" border="0" alt="Weaving the ribbon through the 1 1/2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CuGzJjtIm1A/T7tktR9cmVI/AAAAAAAABTc/9NOPq4-FC5c/princessslip30_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" lace.?="lace.?" /></a>  </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Final armhole results.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Fm-rueR9WWI/T7tkuI4hAKI/AAAAAAAABTk/Im8OAVxoZpY/s1600-h/princessslip312.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="princess slip-31" border="0" alt="princess slip-31" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ygUXXTZxxHY/T7tkv8Kml7I/AAAAAAAABTs/SwsN_44QhzE/princessslip31_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  </p> <p>Me oh my….I have a wearable garment and can see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project.</p> <p>Up next….the flounce!</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KWSBj12-llg/T7tkwdjttiI/AAAAAAAABT0/WFMTxwdGpb0/s1600-h/MimiO_27.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6gg3KagQ2dM/T7tkw1jObgI/AAAAAAAABT8/mHrgrf8DCmc/MimiO_2_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="147" height="53" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-44433715023496237352012-05-21T05:53:00.001-04:002012-05-22T06:13:24.243-04:00A Tale of Two Backs… !#$%<p>While working on this project I had only TWO complete moments of frustration, this being the first.  My issue resulted from the creation of back facings and not totally paying attention to what I was doing!   As I was “merrily” moving along with my princess slip <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 sewing project</a> I ran into a minor snag which almost made me want to run to a corner and cry.  Everything had gone so well on the front of the slip and I was progressing nicely on the back.  Following are the steps that were taken in the progression of the back along with some pictures:</p> <p><u><strong>Back Facings</strong></u> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DE2tOhXKUV0/T7oQbNokL3I/AAAAAAAABOg/J1wASYnsQmM/s1600-h/princessslip96.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Back facing showing a serged hem." border="0" alt="Back facing showing a serged hem." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uL9ZdY8bGng/T7oQbvWsmSI/AAAAAAAABOo/jO94LChDnYs/princessslip9_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> In viewing some of the completed princess slip projects on the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> website I concluded that I did not like how the back opening was handled and created back facings by going off the center back of the pattern and making a facing pattern.  I cut two facings and serged the upper and lower edges then serged/trimmed 1/4” off the raw edge of the hem.  This could be handled with a traditional hem treatment by turning under 1/4” and stitching the hem but I wanted less bulk.  The edge that would match up to the center back seam was left untreated being as it would be trimmed later.  With right sides together I stitched each facing to the center back pieces taking a 3/8” seam allowance along the back and neck edge.  The seam was pressed towards the facing and edge stitched from approximately 3” up from the base to as close as you can get at the top of the facing, trimmed along the center back and diagonally at the corner, turned and pressed.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Y4hrNgYTOlI/T7oQcBbjbWI/AAAAAAAABOw/0mDWd08r9xM/s1600-h/princessslip123.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Back facing finished off, the hem was catch-stitched down and buttonholes were sewn in." border="0" alt="Back facing finished off, the hem was catch-stitched down and buttonholes were sewn in." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R-EtucSpVt0/T7oQcrrz3uI/AAAAAAAABO4/rkdPQ8L2rNA/princessslip12_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>As stated previously, I did not like how the back gapped and placed darts starting at the neckline to one inch below the waistline on each center back piece.  Here is where I further tweaked the dart on each side based upon my scoliosis.  More was taken in on my left side then my right due to excess fabric associated with the scoliosis.  The hem was then catch stitched down to approximately one inch above the placket point.  The piece was pressed again and a row of topstitching was run 1/8” from the edge on both center back pieces.<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--jyCP0VVDDQ/T7oQdP-PUXI/AAAAAAAABPA/Z_UK_3GRCTg/s1600-h/princessslip113.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The left center back piece with the buttonholes." border="0" alt="The left center back piece with the buttonholes." align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dBOgCdHj9nY/T7oQdqGTp-I/AAAAAAAABPI/X6yuqIYcl98/princessslip11_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  The button holes were marked on the left center back piece.  My finished facing piece is 1 1/2” wide so I located my buttons holes 3/4” in from the edge and evenly spaced out for 10 buttons and stitched.  I applied fray check to each button hole and left that to dry prior to cutting the holes open.  I was so thrilled with how nicely everything had come out.  </p> <p><strong><u>Fate Rears It’s Ugly Head</u></strong></p> <p>Now…here is where my “mistake” with the back opening was discovered and I was crushed knowing how much time had been committed to the back.  I went to sew the center back seam on the placket and realized I hadn’t adjusted my placket on the left side.  I had cut both pieces the same and was missing the fabric necessary to close the placket properly.  Oh…how dejected I was to know I had “screwed” up and this screw up would cause me to have to wash, dry, and press additional yardage in order to cut this piece over with the corrected pattern.  Yikes…all of that nice work gone to waste!!!!  Ten o’clock in the evening is not the time to discover these little mess ups.  My goodness…I was besides myself at having done this!!!  Well…sewing is always a learning experience and I was “schooled” with this little faux pas.</p> <p>Well, needless to say I got over myself and remade the left center back piece.  Below are pictures of the remarked button holes.  The center picture I am finishing the back seam by serging the raw edge and the right is the finished seam with the tail which is then woven back in.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Vf4SqjEQnfg/T7oQeNrnRbI/AAAAAAAABPQ/7G0Gdw--Kk4/s1600-h/princessslip152.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The "second" Left, center back piece with button hole markings." border="0" alt="The "second" Left, center back piece with button hole markings." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7_JnvNY97WQ/T7oQemk-yyI/AAAAAAAABPY/HneU3-wt2i8/princessslip15_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>   <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Cr_4xTubmQs/T7oQfIoQcKI/AAAAAAAABPg/v6pvEIpAmDE/s1600-h/princessslip162.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Serging the raw edge on the center back piece." border="0" alt="Serging the raw edge on the center back piece." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-411hOE-aUcE/T7oQhE5u-1I/AAAAAAAABPo/NHy0Xfx_KUM/princessslip16_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-v3LbRzZHOZc/T7oQhpXtBaI/AAAAAAAABPw/O_jCNv5zucg/s1600-h/princessslip172.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The finished serged raw edge." border="0" alt="The finished serged raw edge." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BomiKm0KHvk/T7oQiFz1N7I/AAAAAAAABP4/8Wb23RaMWcA/princessslip17_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6KCdUsZvT0w/T7oQi1oejrI/AAAAAAAABQA/0ZSsVkYei9s/s1600-h/princessslip182.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Weaving the tails back in." border="0" alt="Weaving the tails back in." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lpymLJvTEZE/T7oQjWuDUMI/AAAAAAAABQI/vRTUs8nNmKg/princessslip18_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Here is the “second” left, center back piece all finished and the center back pieces side by side.  You can see at the lower placket how the left back piece was adjusted for a lapped placket.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PzVEHJtF47Q/T7oQjwbywiI/AAAAAAAABQQ/O6ZNR-PQVTs/s1600-h/princessslip192.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The finished "second" left, center back piece." border="0" alt="The finished "second" left, center back piece." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pSUXmf89j30/T7oQlKVat1I/AAAAAAAABQY/SqdR9DPctus/princessslip19_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Q1gr2fhQ41I/T7oQlgKnuZI/AAAAAAAABQg/6M4ObztCITY/s1600-h/princessslip202.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="princess slip-20" border="0" alt="princess slip-20" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NR3rNmFFNdo/T7oQl68uUuI/AAAAAAAABQo/YYFNtHEkuLo/princessslip20_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Once complete I then stitched the center back pieces together.  The center back seams were matched up and stitched until the placket point.  The left, center back piece was lapped over the right, center back piece matching up the center points on the plackets.  I pinned the placket closed to the neckline to stabilize the area and stop the pieces from shifting.  It did require a little maneuvering, some fray check and clipping but the results turned out rather nicely and I definitely liked how the center back turned out; so much better than the original directions on the pattern.  I used vintage buttons from my Great-Grandma Nettie’s button tin. I stitched the buttons on using my machine but I left off the top button knowing I’d need room for the presser foot when stitching on the eyelet trim.   The right picture shows the lower placket with the reinforcement stitching to maintain the placket closure.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-SLiY4bba6Hg/T7oQmaOSlwI/AAAAAAAABQw/vSTB6TRlERo/s1600-h/princessslip212.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Sewing the center back seam prior to lapping the placket." border="0" alt="Sewing the center back seam prior to lapping the placket." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-18uHwlneKCE/T7oQmz2ve7I/AAAAAAAABQ4/eQcdOvVElW0/princessslip21_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Iex-D_rLoQ0/T7oQnMcCdvI/AAAAAAAABRA/EPPxmax_3og/s1600-h/princessslip262.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Reinforcement stitching on the lower placket." border="0" alt="Reinforcement stitching on the lower placket." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oCTTahTKgwA/T7oQnrWVHEI/AAAAAAAABRI/eQRlOKNvP10/princessslip26_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>Here is the completed back with the side backs sewn on.  All is now right with the world!!!</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-GN_bLFmM_K0/T7oQoP2qNEI/AAAAAAAABRQ/QUTNyYDe0v0/s1600-h/princessslip222.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Ta Da....the finished back!" border="0" alt="Ta Da....the finished back!" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-D9vophHFxWU/T7oQotE1DoI/AAAAAAAABRY/7ZdRNbyr8yY/princessslip22_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>Thus ends my “Tale of Two Backs”….</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EYk_HFaXDG8/T7oQo16bEWI/AAAAAAAABRg/nwy4ZD1MrKM/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-izE6dOw-L40/T7oQpEEyHNI/AAAAAAAABRo/ZG52rlY3nL8/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="136" height="49" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-33256378478723848662012-05-20T10:17:00.001-04:002012-05-23T09:06:20.023-04:00Slip Basics, Insertion & Embroidery<p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fjlYEtLfthk/T7j85PHHx1I/AAAAAAAABM8/pmPqD1Z8tNI/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-5b%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Princess Slip center front insertion and embroidery." border="0" alt="Princess Slip center front insertion and embroidery." align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-SWoa8IRru1E/T7j85pmjtQI/AAAAAAAABNE/dNJ0TMSOT14/princess%252520slip-5b_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="405" height="274" /></a>In the continuation of the construction of the Princess Slip pattern <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a>  for the <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 sewing project</a> work commenced on the front portion of the slip.  Prior to construction I performed the following tasks: <br /></p> <ul> <li>Cut 1 CF, 2 SF, 2 SB, 2 CB and 2 CB Facings(self-made pattern) </li> <li>Stay-stitched the neckline of CF, SF, SB, CB and armholes </li> <li>Stay-stitched SF along points 26, 27 going beyond those points </li> <li>Stay-stitched SB along points 31, 32 going beyond those points </li> <li>Fray-checked into point 27 and point 32, let it dry and clipped to stay-stitching </li> <li>Serged all raw edges and wove the tails into the serged stitching </li> <li>Throughout the entire project one of the MOST important steps to perform is <strong>PRESSING.</strong>  So many sewists’ projects end in failure due to the lack of proper pressing.   My process involves stitching the seam, pressing while flat then pressing open or as in some cases pressing the seam to one side or the other. </li> <li>Starch, H2O spray bottle and a pressing cloth are necessary tools as well. </li> </ul> <p>My fabric choice for this project was muslin.  It is 100% cotton and would have been utilized during the 1912 time period and was an economical choice.  I usually purchase my muslin from Jo-Ann’s when I have a 50% off coupon.  A great time to buy the <u>whole bolt</u>.  My fabric was pre-washed and shrunk in the dryer prior to cutting and then pressed thoroughly prior to lay-out.  As far as the directions for this project…I read them but then put my slip together in my own order.</p> <p>First up…inserting lace into the center front piece.   I had <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/03/mail-call-up-next-vppl-1912-project.html" target="_blank">purchased lace</a> but was not satisfied with the look it created on the garment so went back to the drawing board and searched out new lace.  This project requires an extensive amount of insertion which can cause it to become an extremely “pricey” project.  Not an option for me.  Right before Easter I stumbled on a lovely 1 1/2” scalloped, poly/cotton blend lace at Wal-Mart and then ventured on over to Jo-Ann’s and discovered a nice 3/4” lace for the princess seams and a 5/8” eyelet for the neckline.  My original ribbon choice was rose but I could not find any locally so settled for a shade of pink.  I also added some extra difficulty to this project by adding machine embroidery in pink on each side of the insertion. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MX0fs21J4FM/T7j86Mf1c4I/AAAAAAAABNM/jivsNhQTUJA/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-6%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Full view of the finished Princess Slip center front piece." border="0" alt="Full view of the finished Princess Slip center front piece." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kgcrxjDwwOY/T7j86eyv81I/AAAAAAAABNU/v4BNLmO4Tro/princess%252520slip-6_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="216" height="311" /></a> Here is my center front piece with the insertion lace along with the embroidered stitching to the left and right of the insertion.  In the construction process I first stitched down the insertion along the center front and then utilized some iron-on, tear-away stabilizer prior to stitching the embroidery.  Prior to trimming open the front insertion I fray-checked the top edge just to ensure the edge didn’t ravel easily.</p> <p>Prior to sewing the princess seams I sewed the insertion and 3/4” lace onto the upper, side-front pieces.  The <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DRwu3XyyGM8/T7j86xanDCI/AAAAAAAABNc/y2JS0h6mdSM/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-7%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Side front pieces showing both the right and wrong sides." border="0" alt="Side front pieces showing both the right and wrong sides." align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_DjBW4SXXzk/T7j87V2ZyxI/AAAAAAAABNk/uDDOjYoLwAo/princess%252520slip-7_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>princess seams were sewn next.  This requires a little fin-angling at points 26 and 27 where the area was previously stay-stitched and fray-checked.  Below are some pics showing how this area is pinned and sewed.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zx-9VlZSiFc/T7j874LSi1I/AAAAAAAABNs/KOlNf54I1GA/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-13%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Princess slip clipped into point 27." border="0" alt="Princess slip clipped into point 27." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BT7OFKwofaA/T7j88Qg7JLI/AAAAAAAABN0/0onZ-vENvx4/princess%252520slip-13_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-xPejfei09b4/T7j88idC2kI/AAAAAAAABN8/9VMxpBHy_90/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-14%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Pinned center front to side front." border="0" alt="Pinned center front to side front." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ufN9ADE1zOQ/T7j89LlTpvI/AAAAAAAABOE/DcWMmynC27s/princess%252520slip-14_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>I sewed only from the seam allowance point at the neckline through point 27 down to the base of the slip.  I <strong><u>did not</u></strong> sew through the neckline to the raw edge.  This allows both pieces to be turned easily at the seam line when it is turned under to finish.  I did the same process on the back pieces as well.  A recommendation for the front seam is to start at the neckline matching up seam line points and reinforcing prior to stitching further then stitch through your clipped point on to the point where the horizontal insertion lace is marked, back stitch then switch to a basting stitch for the remainder of the seam, press flat and then press seam open.  The 3/4” lace was inserted over the princess seam.  </p> <p>I need to offer another piece of advice here…</p> <p>If your insertion lace is less than 1” wide you need to carefully move the princess seam to one side on the wrong-side while the insertion lace is stitched down otherwise it will get caught.  Once done with stitching your princess seam insertion lace down you can now easily open that seam due to the basting stitching.  Press the seams and finish according to insertion lace directions.  I fray-checked at the top of the princess insertion prior to opening the seam as well.</p> <p>The horizontal insertion lace was stitched down at the bust and opened as in previous steps and then a row of embroidery was added at the neckline.  Placement was placed based upon the width’s of my eyelet and 3/4” insertion lace.  </p> <p>With the front complete, on the horizon, the back…I will leave that for my next post.</p> <p>Enjoy your day and as always, Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aVVroOBuYog/T7j89RYSaEI/AAAAAAAABOM/Vr5ZkKFl9iU/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-z65HJTdka5A/T7j893McJZI/AAAAAAAABOU/YqTueEab8lE/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="125" height="45" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-17787375158156709982012-05-19T10:00:00.001-04:002012-05-22T06:20:14.955-04:00Adjusting the Princess Slip for Me, Myself & I<p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vayPmWtk4Bk/T7enY-DMR_I/AAAAAAAABLU/mt-27rdxdHs/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-1%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Final tissue pattern after making all of my adjustments. I then took this and added the bottom half of the slip to it to complete the pattern and cut my muslin mock-ups." border="0" alt="Final tissue pattern after making all of my adjustments. I then took this and added the bottom half of the slip to it to complete the pattern and cut my muslin mock-ups." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LJOUlfgYJqU/T7enZR6fYEI/AAAAAAAABLc/4qLP3w_o97E/princess%252520slip-1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> I was very excited to receive the Princess Slip pattern <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank"># 0336</a> from <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/" target="_blank">VPLL</a> for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a>.  When it comes to me and patterns it is always standard practice to make adjustments and this pattern was no exception.  I do have some body issues that complicate matters but have learned to live with them and the necessary adjustments that have to be made.  Those issues being my height, I always have to lengthen patterns, my short waist issue (I have no body – I am all legs) and the pattern adjustments that accompany my scoliosis.  I don’t have a bad curve but it does present problems that require all patterns to be tweaked in order to fit me.</p> <p>In creating my pattern I traced only the top half of the pattern to make those necessary adjustments marking off a horizontal line for my high-hip and hip locations based upon the natural waistline of the pattern.  I am of the school of thought….I never cut my original pattern!!!  God forbid….I prefer to trace and mess with the tracing.  It may take longer but I am always left with a pristine pattern that can be utilized again for myself or someone else in the future.</p> <p>The major adjustments I made to this pattern were as follows':</p> <ul> <li>Waist – made larger </li> <li>Adjusted the side front and side back per <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/2012/03/13/princess-seam-slip/" target="_blank">previous posters suggestion</a>.  I too found that it fell too far back and cut and pasted the side front/back pieces to realign the side seam up correctly.  This in turn required a slight adjustment on the front armcye. </li> <li>Additionally the princess seam was approximately 1” too far over towards the side seam.  I realigned that so that it fell over my bust point. </li> <li>I lowered the bust 3/4” to match up to my bust point. </li> <li>I lengthened/shortened the shoulder as well on both the front and back pieces due to finding the seam falling too far towards the back.  I aligned it to center correctly at the shoulder. </li> <li>Shortened the waist 1 1/2” to match my upper body length and re-lengthened the pattern at the hip area to match the original overall length of the slip.  I did not lengthen the slip being as you have 17” of flounce to deal with and can make the length adjustments with that. </li> <li>I truly did NOT like the directions for the back placket and created a facing for both center back pieces.  I made a slight adjustment to the pattern at the base of the placket (had a placket nightmare moment which will be discussed in a later post). </li> <li>Some minor tweaks included some back darts on the center back pieces due my scoliosis and not liking the excess fabric gapping there as well as taking it in at the shoulder seam starting at the neck edge and decreasing it to match the seam allowance at the armhole.  There just was way too much fabric for my liking.  I left the front alone but if I make this again I would further adjust the pattern to take out the fullness at the center front as well.  For now that fullness can be drawn up with the eyelet trim and ribbon. </li> </ul> <p>It took me two muslins to get this pattern worked out to fit my body proportions.  I am satisfied with the results but being as this project has taken me two months to complete from start to finish my final product is slightly large on me being as I have lost some weight due to a lifestyle change that my husband and myself have made for his health that was started back in January.  Not a bad thing…I am happy to have the weight gone but must now save for a new <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2009/10/ma-ma-mamarvelous-myrna.html" target="_blank">Myrna</a> being as the present one is slightly too big.</p> <p>Muslin # 1</p> <p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KwtIot8D4Wc/T7enZ3y7ORI/AAAAAAAABLk/LGugvq3Gqyk/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-2%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="First mock-up with pinned adjustments." border="0" alt="First mock-up with pinned adjustments." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SoznSXOvf4c/T7enfB4EpvI/AAAAAAAABLs/9PL68sx6SmI/princess%252520slip-2_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Muslin# 2</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fSMZ4mr-LyQ/T7enfvXnD3I/AAAAAAAABL0/gUun7v4WaX8/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-4%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Muslin #2 - Front" border="0" alt="Muslin #2 - Front" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qoE-A8thZTY/T7engNejfTI/AAAAAAAABL8/zu9ma5mpu3M/princess%252520slip-4_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5ijCPzfd-XA/T7engXbCsDI/AAAAAAAABME/Kja35n6_9og/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-5%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Muslin #2 - Side" border="0" alt="Muslin #2 - Side" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mhPqkZjnUSU/T7engicObJI/AAAAAAAABMM/bRlH7tTVZAo/princess%252520slip-5_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Bi87VokILR4/T7enhCuM4yI/AAAAAAAABMU/u8LVD-yWelw/s1600-h/princess%252520slip-3%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Muslin #2 - Back" border="0" alt="Muslin #2 - Back" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-H0bmIEUj_MY/T7enhRuBzeI/AAAAAAAABMc/P3oGvLxGHk0/princess%252520slip-3_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="165" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Up next commencement of the slip itself!  Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LdUtO-VGpUg/T7enh2o7dXI/AAAAAAAABMk/Of75HDvkNfg/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-atiQpvlpt44/T7eniGWTcGI/AAAAAAAABMs/hdTDlygpjzc/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="112" height="40" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-86099816288931909642012-05-18T17:56:00.001-04:002012-05-18T17:56:55.631-04:00Pattern Drafting the Princess Slip and 1910’s Corset<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8hcXXJNGrX4/T7bEQuLgINI/AAAAAAAABKk/-9oaYVnDdwQ/s1600-h/DSC_01218.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Princess slip pattern drafting. To save myself time and fabric I have only drafted the top portion of the pattern to test for fit. " border="0" alt="Princess slip pattern drafting. To save myself time and fabric I have only drafted the top portion of the pattern to test for fit. " align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EYichfa7Ha4/T7bEzH5eYOI/AAAAAAAABKs/ao_ebP8djH4/DSC_0121_thumb6.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> Just a quick post today.  This past weekends hard work in pattern drafting yielded me a pattern for both my <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank">Princess Slip</a> for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">1912 Sewing Project</a> along with a corset pattern for a 1910’s corset based on a <a href="http://festiveattyre.com/research/1910scorset/pattern.pdf" target="_blank">pattern</a> which can be downloaded from <a href="http://festiveattyre.com/research/1910scorset/1910scorset.htm" target="_blank">Festive Attyre’s</a> website.  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6KQGoh0SqLs/T7bFnn1nLQI/AAAAAAAABK0/s_dC_xhfTcc/s1600-h/festive_attyre_pattern015.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Pattern drafting for my 1910's corset. The pattern for this corset can be downloaded from Festive Attyre's website." border="0" alt="Pattern drafting for my 1910's corset. The pattern for this corset can be downloaded from Festive Attyre's website." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NcVTQgdnXYA/T7bFpHSV6wI/AAAAAAAABK8/_brP3A0gXdU/festive_attyre_pattern01_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a> </p> <p>As to what alterations I made to the patterns, I will give more detail in a later post.  Up next will be the cutting and sewing of my mock-ups.  It is my goal to get this done during the week so that I may begin to cut and sew the actual projects over the weekend.</p> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <p><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-V7GRLm-ZdkY/T7bFph-jtpI/AAAAAAAABLE/_7bWZFZPiiA/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="128" height="46" /></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-41483068945732729072012-03-26T08:49:00.001-04:002012-03-26T08:49:56.780-04:00Monday Morning Musings<p>With a cup of herbal tea in hand I sit and ponder my path for the day.  My weekend has been spent working on my <a href="https://vpll.3dcartstores.com/1912-Ladies-Princess-Slip_p_493.html" target="_blank">1912 Princess Slip</a> pattern for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">VPLL Project</a> as well as adjusting a <a href="http://festiveattyre.blogspot.com/2011/12/1910s-corset-pattern-and-instructions.html" target="_blank">corset pattern</a> by <a href="http://festiveattyre.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Festive Attyre</a>.  Being as I am not the diminutive type that these patterns were made for I have had to adjust them for my 5’ 10” frame and build.  Teeny, tiny, I am not!</p> <p>So…what is in store for today and the remainder of my week?</p> <p>…mmmm</p> <p><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0963651722"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The Voice of Fashion" border="0" alt="The Voice of Fashion" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GXPmMog1Gss/T3Bl7uA0pzI/AAAAAAAABKM/d4sZOlsFYP4/TheVoiceofFashion5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="190" height="244" /></a> I am anxiously awaiting the Frances Grimble book <em>“</em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0963651722" target="_blank"><em>The Voice of Fashion</em></a><em>”</em> which I won in a <a href="http://afterthedress.blogspot.com/2012/03/blog-birthday-four-years-old-today.html" target="_blank">Give-Away</a> on Gwen’s blog <a href="http://afterthedress.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">After the Dress</a>.  I just purchased Frances Grimble’s book <em>“</em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0963651714" target="_blank"><em>The Edwardian Modiste</em></a><em>”</em> several weeks ago and fell in love with all the fashions and patterns in that book.  As a winner in Gwen’s give-away you were given a choice of one of four of Frances Grimble’s books and in choosing one I decided on the book directly preceding the Edwardian Modiste which includes the Gibson Girl Era of fashion.  How wonderful it is going to be to have this reference in my library!  The other portion of the give-away included a membership to the <a href="http://www.vpll.org/" target="_blank">VPLL</a>(Vintage Pattern Lending Library) which is associated with the 1912 Sewing Project.  I am just aching to get my hands on some of their patterns.  I’d like to offer Gwen of <a href="http://afterthedress.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">After the Dress</a> a heart-felt thank you for offering such a wonderful give-away.</p> <p>Well…enough Monday morning musings…onto cutting a mock-up for my Princess Slip and corset and a little bit of sewing.</p> <p>Happy Sewing….</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rlbVzZ-8OYg/T3Bl8OKCEyI/AAAAAAAABKU/nLAcOAcPA38/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Pj7iVsdXB0o/T3Bl872KFYI/AAAAAAAABKc/2K2o-ChVSew/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="122" height="44" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-9797693560150112872012-03-12T06:39:00.001-04:002012-03-12T06:39:02.317-04:00Give-Away on Wearing History<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cSO5KMI8jGk/T13SPGcHyWI/AAAAAAAABJk/R0MYGDrIR8c/s1600-h/image%25255B6%25255D.png"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="1910's Blouse Pattern available on Wearing History's Pattern website." border="0" alt="1910's Blouse Pattern available on Wearing History's Pattern website." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-NS_qTwK9rhE/T13SP18c16I/AAAAAAAABJs/0YxFcqSUvFk/image_thumb%25255B2%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="187" height="244" /></a> Good Morning fellow sewists….I have my coffee in hand and am surfing the net and came across this lovely give-away on Wearing History’s <a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/2012/03/giveaway-1910s-blouse-pattern/" target="_blank">blog</a>.  In this give-away you will win ONE copy of the upcoming <strong>1910s Blouse Pattern</strong> in the size pack of your choice.  If you are sewing for the <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">VPLL 1912 Project</a> this pattern might be of special interest to you.  So head on over and read Lauren’s <a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/2012/03/giveaway-1910s-blouse-pattern/" target="_blank">post</a> requirements and enter the give-away.  I am entering and keeping my fingers crossed.  Good Luck…</p> <p><a href="http://www.wearinghistorypatterns.com/" target="_blank"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Click to be taken to Wearing History Patterns." border="0" alt="Click to be taken to Wearing History Patterns." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1hd1UIjkHvE/T13SQc_r6NI/AAAAAAAABJ0/ZsjB_w-QRr8/image%25255B7%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="159" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qMlhnGpEHRc/T13SQ2TVFVI/AAAAAAAABJ8/fPrBvmGkQGw/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gvQF2rcJ0mE/T13SRb6pXTI/AAAAAAAABKE/3kxwKlvoG0g/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="127" height="46" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-2105134949417710542012-03-09T18:58:00.000-05:002012-03-26T08:51:25.522-04:00Mail Call: Up Next the VPPL 1912 Project<p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UzmGUfNzoWU/T11NfFqltdI/AAAAAAAABIU/L4nYZ-r2UmY/s1600-h/DSC_0086%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The Edwardian Modiste by Frances Grimble and Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold." border="0" alt="The Edwardian Modiste by Frances Grimble and Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold." align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-M3kYdMHfx7g/T11NfkR-fgI/AAAAAAAABIc/4QbXzWF3my8/DSC_0086_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="154" /></a> Lookie-lookie what the mail lady brought me today!!!</p> <p>What a haul!!!  I have been waiting patiently for two books from Amazon, <em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0963651714" target="_blank">The Edwardian Modiste</a> </em>and<em> <a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0896760278" target="_blank">Patterns of Fashion 2</a> </em>as<em> </em>well as lace trim from <a href="http://www.debslace-n-trims.com/" target="_blank">Deb’s Lace & Trims</a> and my patients has finally paid off with a box from both UPS and the Postal Service yesterday.   The final piece to the puzzle, my Challenge Pattern – Princess Slip, was received today.  These items will get put to good use all in preparation for participating in the VPLL 1912 sewing project.  I am so thrilled to have the main <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Bw57-D_Yx8U/T11NlS_qcBI/AAAAAAAABIk/rs-0wfUoPzM/s1600-h/DSC_0087%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Princess Slip Materials" border="0" alt="Princess Slip Materials" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JyxlRHMcNJI/T11NmdEYqsI/AAAAAAAABIs/K7XQUQ6lT0c/DSC_0087_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="149" /></a>components to get this project underway, all that is left is the fabric which I will hopefully acquire this weekend.</p> <p>The books were ordered in preparation for this project and I have quickly perused their pages and am very excited to find that the authentic patterns have been included along with the accompanying instructions, fashion plates and period sewing techniques.  There are also directions for converting the pattern illustrations in the books into the actual size pattern.  In the <em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0963651714" target="_blank">Edwardian Modiste</a></em> there are scales in the back of the book that will aide you in drafting a pattern for your individual size based upon the American System of <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-r3pi-ToXGNM/T11Nm7qySmI/AAAAAAAABI0/UTJ1xhhr6TI/s1600-h/Edwardian%252520Modiste%252520Collage%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Edwardian Modiste Collage of the American System of Cutting Rulers, basic measurement how to page and one of the fashions with pattern illustrations." border="0" alt="Edwardian Modiste Collage of the American System of Cutting Rulers, basic measurement how to page and one of the fashions with pattern illustrations." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jHc8QfiEIcw/T11NnZYpxGI/AAAAAAAABI8/znNoDX568Dg/Edwardian%252520Modiste%252520Collage_thumb%25255B6%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="148" /></a> Cutting Rulers.  It is rather interesting seeing how these patterns were designed during this time period and what the seamstress utilized to enlarge them.  As for the <em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0896760278" target="_blank">Patterns of Fashion 2</a>,</em> this book also has patterns based upon actual dresses that have been studied in museums and galleries.  The garments have been graphed out with accompanying notes on fabrics, trims, etc.  There is an evening dress I am eyeing up on page 58 (c1909-1910) that will be a future project.  Both books are well worth the money paid in the information that can be <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-J8v-DhuWS0o/T11Nn-wrJ9I/AAAAAAAABJE/QA-JdPNv2V8/s1600-h/DSC_0093%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Patterns of Fashion 2, page 58, shows a beautiful evening dress (c1909-1910) from The London Museum. Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold." border="0" alt="Patterns of Fashion 2, page 58, shows a beautiful evening dress (c1909-1910) from The London Museum. Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold." align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PfPu8j6TgVw/T11NoJDkpHI/AAAAAAAABJM/FY2YDRlxOxs/DSC_0093_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="165" /></a>gleaned from them. </p> <p>Onto VPLL…</p> <p>Allow me to give you a little background information on the VPLL 1912 project.   I was reading an interesting <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/22260/sew-vintage-with-the-1912-project">article on the Threads Magazine</a> website which lead me to a blog post on <a href="http://vpll.wordpress.com/2011/11/24/the-1912-project/">Vintage Fashionista</a> that had made a request for test sewers for a special project.  The VPLL Library is transcribing patterns from the 1912 editions of La Mode Illustree in hopes of making the patterns from that year available to the public for lending/purchase.  As a test sewer I will receive patterns over the next year and will construct the clothing, post photos and blog about my experience sewing  on these vintage fashion patterns.  There are over 400 test sewers for this project and each has been designated a group based upon their geographic location.  As patterns become available they are assigned to a group.  As it stands right now not all groups have received a pattern but each sewer is given the opportunity to sew a “Challenge Pattern” that will be offered each month.  Officially I am now a member of Group #28, of <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/">The 1912 Project</a> and am thrilled to have received the challenge pattern and am looking forward to receiving my regular group pattern once it becomes available as well.</p> <p>I can’t wait to begin sewing vintage fashions!</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OaJat1_XenQ/T11NoqGdpZI/AAAAAAAABJU/KXmTa9YekMc/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O_2%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-75SVNqf0Gao/T11No-0PbDI/AAAAAAAABJc/6io6cBfDVOo/Mimi%252520O_2_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="136" height="49" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-57088453426266796542012-03-06T08:07:00.001-05:002012-03-06T08:07:41.852-05:00Resolutions Revisited….<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TAr-Ew-VqEM/T1YMFjGQCdI/AAAAAAAABH0/iz8nZPbXYhc/s1600-h/snow_day_12-09-09%252520003b%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Snow Day in the Northeast!" border="0" alt="Snow Day in the Northeast!" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-30FMJo17sGU/T1YMGLDr0pI/AAAAAAAABH8/KqZ1PFBw4vY/snow_day_12-09-09%252520003b_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> Well…I did it!!!  It has only taken me a year and two months to finish blogging about <a href="http://www.mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey" target="_blank">my Lady Grey jacket</a> and the <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">sew-along</a> that took place on <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">Gertie’s blog</a> back in August/September of 2010.  Whoooo Hooooo….Yippy-Ki-Yay!!!  As it was I didn’t start the sew-along until October of that year so I was behind from the get go but I am not going to use that as an excuse for my lackadaisical attitude in regards to blogging about it.   For the record I did complete my jacket right before Christmas but once the holiday's hit I was caught up in the fervor of the moment or should that be plural, “moments” considering how long I have been away.  You could say I took a “mental health day” that lasted a whole year.  <em>C'est la vie</em>…</p> <p>The sense of accomplishment is incredible.  I am flying on the wings of elation with the anticipati0n of completing all my resolutions before 2012 is through.  <em>Note the sarcasm in my voice!  </em>Imagine that….REALLY…if that happened it would be one of those “aha moments” but before I get ahead of myself I should get my feet back on the ground and put the proverbial nose to the grind stone.   Those darn UFO knitting projects will be the death of me.  I have some sort of “block” or maybe it’s a boulder, in getting the ambition up to see these projects through.   With one resolution down and two more to go one could say “not bad…slow and steady wins the race”.  Seriously…I have been a wee bit on the slow side in my artistic pursuits  but I will keep on course and complete them before the year is out!  Wish me luck and until then…</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-HjRezVkSi8c/T1YMGV8Q05I/AAAAAAAABIE/yIScZTuLkUI/s1600-h/MimiO_2.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-N-tbpf6Y1jc/T1YMGxrnH0I/AAAAAAAABIM/JMuV3J0QW9U/MimiO_2_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="105" height="41" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-47740065265100103002012-03-04T09:59:00.000-05:002012-03-04T09:59:49.550-05:00Lady Grey: Hooray the Finished Jacket<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EvpI92tw6VQ/T1OA59L2F_I/AAAAAAAABGU/g6mHWgd_-6k/s1600-h/IMG_3528-1.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; border-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; border-right: 0px" title="Lady Grey Finished....Yes!!!" border="0" alt="Lady Grey Finished....Yes!!!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_BXOqvDMx1M/T1OA6Q-CNVI/AAAAAAAABGc/6hH49v8efW4/IMG_3528-1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="296" height="391" /></a>Well here she is…my version of the Lady Grey using Butterick <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/10/waiting-in-wingslady-grey-sew-along.html" target="_blank">B5401</a>.  I wish my picture had turned out better…a photographer I am not!  Trying to take the picture, see how it turned out and retake it aren’t the easiest things to do with the sun in your eyes and the weather being a wee bit brisk.  On top of that, the photographer forgot to tell me to smile. ;-) All in all I do love how this jacket fits me and what a difference the tailoring made in the looks and drape of the coat.  I will most definitely take on another tailored jacket project in the future.  Below are some views of the finished jacket hanging out on <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2009/10/ma-ma-mamarvelous-myrna.html" target="_blank">Myrna</a>.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-zT_ujY3EE7c/T1OA67jJOuI/AAAAAAAABGk/ldLpeqDI25A/s1600-h/IMG_35155.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Finished back view." border="0" alt="Finished back view." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ojPoumsWplo/T1OA7U8IFoI/AAAAAAAABGo/dqSKesYANAY/IMG_3515_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VAerRd117cw/T1OA7qMtRLI/AAAAAAAABG0/eyrZ4AzOQl0/s1600-h/IMG_35147.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Finished front view." border="0" alt="Finished front view." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pH0ppiQAs2U/T1OA8Q1cKGI/AAAAAAAABG8/wmEJdcF_cBk/IMG_3514_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Dfdu53Milp0/T1OA836zsOI/AAAAAAAABHE/0QiLaKIi6LI/s1600-h/IMG_35165.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Finished side view." border="0" alt="Finished side view." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Br2i42_RBnI/T1OA9Jkiy_I/AAAAAAAABHM/R56OyhQ-K6U/IMG_3516_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>And of course, according to <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/next-step-accessorize.html" target="_blank">Gertie</a>, we had to offer you an accessorized version as well.  Every Lady Grey needs to be adorned;  mine is with a beautiful Celtic Brooch my mother gave to me for my birthday.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZG6b5soNgNc/T1OA9luEHhI/AAAAAAAABHU/bMiboZzL7qc/s1600-h/IMG_353118.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: auto" title="Lady Grey accessorized with a beautiful Celtic Brooch." border="0" alt="Lady Grey accessorized with a beautiful Celtic Brooch." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-el0r5Ch3EZM/T1OA-pAzRvI/AAAAAAAABHc/GWP5UTLETUw/IMG_35311_thumb6.jpg?imgmax=800" width="364" height="484" /></a></p> <p align="center">I am totally loving the look!!! </p> <p align="left">Onward we go to our next sewing adventure…</p> <p align="left">Happy Sewing…</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-upZcB_GjZCM/T1OA-zJNm4I/AAAAAAAABHk/9By9JkntKRE/s1600-h/MimiO_26.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4b8ivQpZYtA/T1OA_es8mgI/AAAAAAAABHs/iNHTaerU2u4/MimiO_2_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="128" height="53" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-82986634399919861312012-03-02T15:12:00.000-05:002012-03-06T07:07:54.805-05:00Lady Grey: Final Construction Part 2<p>Wow…this has been a tremendous project to work on and it is hard to believe that it is finally winding down to where the jacket will be getting unveiled.  </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wqRGa--MqB4/T1Eg9Lyr58I/AAAAAAAABDk/4zKm9TPCXgM/s1600-h/IMG_34832.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Removing basting in back, lining placket." border="0" alt="Removing basting in back, lining placket." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FElQa5LDJsY/T1Eg9g1v8vI/AAAAAAAABDs/cebT8CVCPPY/IMG_3483_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eQ0_nlOQyDg/T1Eg-CgW6lI/AAAAAAAABD0/jIarcvPGiys/s1600-h/IMG_34843.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Basting removed." border="0" alt="Basting removed." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QmbFG9MKsWk/T1Eg-p11YYI/AAAAAAAABD8/JEd1GmPfKpg/IMG_3484_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Prior to stitching the jacket hem and lining together the basting stitches for the back lining placket needed to be removed.  The jacket hem was turned up and eased in then catch-stitched down.  I didn’t want my lining hanging loosely so I chose to stitch it directly to the jacket hem…darn…no one will every know that the jacket was under-lined with those cute little flannel circles!  Once the hem and lower jacket lining were in place the lining was also attached to the inner sleeve hem.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-61t27FkyudQ/T1Eg_JoV5AI/AAAAAAAABEA/kTZfotqnV4c/s1600-h/IMG_34872.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Catching lining to hem." border="0" alt="Catching lining to hem." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-58JBWDWifGc/T1Eg_ezOcRI/AAAAAAAABEI/6e3HeVRNdCg/IMG_3487_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></p> <p>The jacket was placed on <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2009/10/ma-ma-mamarvelous-myrna.html" target="_blank">Myrna</a> where I then hand basted diagonal stitches along the front of the jacket, lapels and upper collar.  This allowed me to steam press the jacket slightly and kept all the layers together prior to top-stitching.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aTrZ-4mcGDM/T1Eg_wzNSBI/AAAAAAAABEU/8CMDqiQw6ag/s1600-h/IMG_34892.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Diagonal basting along lapel." border="0" alt="Diagonal basting along lapel." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ZA-hRw1AoC8/T1EhATzsvQI/AAAAAAAABEc/-ktJa_ZF-TU/IMG_3489_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QvXXtRydWNE/T1EhAwnQViI/AAAAAAAABEk/NtIdNgeJpxk/s1600-h/IMG_34903.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Diagonal basting through all layers on the front, lapels and upper collar." border="0" alt="Diagonal basting through all layers on the front, lapels and upper collar." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-f8nNWsZHq-8/T1EhBYSiNyI/AAAAAAAABEs/XcfIu43_qOA/IMG_3490_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BKBuckthzOo/T1EhCHZaV8I/AAAAAAAABE0/n6we6eayCSI/s1600-h/IMG_34933.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Showing back upper collar basting." border="0" alt="Showing back upper collar basting." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qlSQmJQewqQ/T1EhCVxX5mI/AAAAAAAABE8/ZNuv8t_ybZo/IMG_3493_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>I used the seam guide to assist me in having even top-stitching all the way around the coat.    Once complete the hand basting was removed and I steam pressed the jacket again.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zDjRZBl8N2Q/T1EhC-vJb6I/AAAAAAAABFE/nhKTEvET8oc/s1600-h/IMG_35023.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Top-stitching..." border="0" alt="Top-stitching..." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KbUQaoJuK0Y/T1EhDbogipI/AAAAAAAABFM/VrnJvtS2FOU/IMG_3502_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  </p> <p>Continuing onward with sewing that lovely button that I had picked out from my Great-Grandmother Netties’ button tin.  I used a toothpick to keep my button raised away from the coat while also stitching through a second button underneath to help prevent the lining from getting damaged due to the stress of buttoning and unbuttoning the coat.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jwuD1y9np20/T1EhD9P0VwI/AAAAAAAABFU/EsL1aGWTHHk/s1600-h/IMG_35033.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Great-Grandma Netties' Button." border="0" alt="Great-Grandma Netties' Button." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-anxK71gVQ0g/T1EhEej4eqI/AAAAAAAABFc/TplWm42ug-w/IMG_3503_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-h-8qdQjXN-8/T1EhE33xfQI/AAAAAAAABFk/8CRRsooW3VM/s1600-h/IMG_35083.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Button is sewn in on the underside while button sewn to the front." border="0" alt="Button is sewn in on the underside while button sewn to the front." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dDa-C9h0pDo/T1EhFYlVpUI/AAAAAAAABFs/iZm_bChvQmY/IMG_3508_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> </p> <p>An additional snap closure was sewn on as well. <em>Update 3/6/12: I found this <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/23267/how-to-attach-hooks-eyes-snaps" target="_blank">“sewing tidbit”</a> on Threads this morning and thought it might be of interest to you.  I will now use this technique in the future when sewing on snaps and hooks.</em></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7LtxKv4VdrA/T1EhGMsnKiI/AAAAAAAABF0/uyIieHXVkaQ/s1600-h/IMG_35133.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Additional snap closure sewn in." border="0" alt="Additional snap closure sewn in." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4GZiiw11A00/T1EhGohjXwI/AAAAAAAABF8/ADnH8cddpY4/IMG_3513_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>    </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>….next post….the finished product!!!</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sYRMoz3Xl2Y/T1EhG_Tt8yI/AAAAAAAABGE/_qAGCvLMs-w/s1600-h/MimiO_24.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O_2" border="0" alt="Mimi O_2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GG5ux3ceLiA/T1EhHEuSLBI/AAAAAAAABGM/DoMeLl8QYf4/MimiO_2_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="156" height="56" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-32007277138561220152012-03-01T13:54:00.000-05:002012-03-01T15:23:50.708-05:00Lady Grey: Final Construction-Part 1<p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Mf7tnV5JOpk/T0_a0x8zHdI/AAAAAAAABDY/cTUXPzQr9ec/s1600-h/IMG_3378%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Pocket placed on the front jacket." border="0" alt="Pocket placed on the front jacket." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uPg1VN-UKf4/T0-9LT2LRWI/AAAAAAAABDg/nZnD_q5zJ8I/IMG_3378_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a></p> <p>Moving along to completing the outer jacket construction was the pocket placement and installation.  Due to my having adjusted the jacket for my height I also changed where the pockets would fall along the side seam.  I lowered their placement so that they would be more comfortable for me.  Once complete the jacket was then sewn at the shoulder and side seams in preparation for setting in the sleeve.  The quality of this picture isn’t the greatest but you can see some of the top stitching I have done along my seam lines as well.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>  </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-usp3eur7SqE/T0-9L6Y4s0I/AAAAAAAABBI/PRrk8_OvzPc/s1600-h/IMG_33502.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Stabilizing the sleeve cap with fusible interfacing. The lower edge has been pinked." border="0" alt="Stabilizing the sleeve cap with fusible interfacing. The lower edge has been pinked." align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-op7-CEPNcvQ/T0-9MAdHYpI/AAAAAAAABBQ/CFr3CJ_1WYI/IMG_3350_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>With all the lining and jacket pieces sewn together the next step in the process was tailoring the sleeves.  The sleeve cap on the jacket was stabilized  and bias cut stripes were fused onto the lower hem with fusible interfacing.  The sleeve head was installed according to <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2012/02/lady-grey-lining.html" target="_blank">my previous posting</a> on the lining.  The sleeve was then stitched and the hem turned up and sewn in place. </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_7swoD_uI8E/T0-9M602RFI/AAAAAAAABBY/PFzHFx4N2m8/s1600-h/IMG_33994.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The wrong side of the wool jacket sleeve showing the sleeve head sewn into it." border="0" alt="The wrong side of the wool jacket sleeve showing the sleeve head sewn into it." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-r4O0DSl8MhY/T0-9NHrJB-I/AAAAAAAABBg/1EKhbueCKyo/IMG_3399_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NAj3bWJ5VYw/T0-9N8ZLD8I/AAAAAAAABBo/kNX0sixD9mw/s1600-h/IMG_33981.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Turned sleeve hem and stitched it to the bias cut fused interfacing." border="0" alt="Turned sleeve hem and stitched it to the bias cut fused interfacing." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Rkv8JT8Zoe8/T0-9PhaycCI/AAAAAAAABBw/_w79iwyUkvU/IMG_3398_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_7swoD_uI8E/T0-9M602RFI/AAAAAAAABBY/PFzHFx4N2m8/s1600-h/IMG_33994.jpg"> </a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6mqAd50WGm0/T0-9QVG98iI/AAAAAAAABB4/bIY3uXCCXuc/s1600-h/IMG_34215.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Shoulder pad placement and installation." border="0" alt="Shoulder pad placement and installation." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_5Nq0Vv_mV4/T0-9QzQp_jI/AAAAAAAABCA/Z305QjIaRZE/IMG_3421_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></a>Here is a picture of the shoulder pads that were sewn into my jacket.  Due to my various adjustments and the fact that I have complications due to my scoliosis I had to sew in two different thicknesses of pads to make the jacket hang correctly on me.  It is more than obvious in this picture due to using two different colored shoulder pads.  The left front required a 1” thick pad while the right needed a 1/2” pad.  It sounds strange but it works for me and allows the jacket to hang evenly while accounting for me curvature.</p> <p>With this completed, the jacket and the lining were stitched together along the front edges, the lapel and upper collar areas, seams were graded, pressed and turned.  Prior to any topstitching it was necessary to now mark the placement of the opening for the bound buttonhole onto the front facing piece.  Here pins were stuck through into the facing and then I marked with chalk onto the facing.  A square piece of black organza was stitched, clipped and turned to create the hole for the back side of the bound buttonhole.  I think it turned out lovely and no frayed areas!</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Zq_izdIrzcI/T0-9RRmzLEI/AAAAAAAABCI/T-4uiDpAf4Q/s1600-h/IMG_34714.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Pushing pins through to mark the placement for the hole in the facing for the bound buttonhole." border="0" alt="Pushing pins through to mark the placement for the hole in the facing for the bound buttonhole." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YwY8OWhKSxw/T0-9R3hm_sI/AAAAAAAABCQ/NInrXu9Zrl4/IMG_3471_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WA_L9xnyVEs/T0-9SQa_CAI/AAAAAAAABCY/KAwlNM6M4Qw/s1600-h/IMG_34747.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Marked sewing line for the facing side of the bound buttonhole." border="0" alt="Marked sewing line for the facing side of the bound buttonhole." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DarWd_fxRxQ/T0-9Sgv_1hI/AAAAAAAABCg/yY_YPhsbeeI/IMG_3474_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cpWdHtE1GjI/T0-9W5OjtEI/AAAAAAAABCo/5SnxuE2bPh4/s1600-h/IMG_34764.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="After sewing and turning the organza to the wrong side of the facing you are left with a wonderful looking hole to complet your bound buttonhole with." border="0" alt="After sewing and turning the organza to the wrong side of the facing you are left with a wonderful looking hole to complet your bound buttonhole with." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mlLxSnNezbc/T0-9XQXTrOI/AAAAAAAABCw/1LVmg40_Llg/IMG_3476_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JXWAp2hJw80/T0-9XnlsLzI/AAAAAAAABC4/K5wY2hmRew4/s1600-h/IMG_34825.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Finished bound buttonhole." border="0" alt="Finished bound buttonhole." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NylulHJKGRs/T0-9YUueVJI/AAAAAAAABDA/YjlmB_lyigI/IMG_3482_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></p> <p>Next post Part 2-Completing the remainder of the jacket.</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-W-KLdxSe_OU/T0-9YjlJRgI/AAAAAAAABDI/8l0Tb8D3T4Y/s1600-h/MimiO4.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uMVl_jXt2ZU/T0-9Y7bqVyI/AAAAAAAABDQ/_RofWNTM14E/MimiO_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="168" height="127" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-48036235525435065602012-02-27T07:08:00.001-05:002012-02-27T07:08:46.779-05:00Lady Grey: Lining<p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9_5zbn9UGuc/T0tyEh3EunI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/haZtS1Vc_14/s1600-h/IMG_33571.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Side front lining underlined with flannel." border="0" alt="Side front lining underlined with flannel." align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NfqLgyH2umc/T0tyFA2CfmI/AAAAAAAAA9c/EsqeP5UCtCA/IMG_3357_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="192" height="250" /></a> </p> <p>Wanting to add some extra warmth to my jacket I underlined all of my lining pieces with a flannel fabric.  I basted the pieces by hand first then stitched 1/2” around all edges and finished the raw edges with the serger.  The lining was then constructed.  </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>I also modified my coat pattern to include a hidden pocket on the left front side.  I just happen to love all the pockets that are on men’s apparel and feel ladies apparel is sometimes lacking in this department.  I wanted the extra pocket for my sunglasses, cell phone, lip balm, etc.  I utilized a technique which I had discovered in Kenneth D. King’s book, “<a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/1589233891" target="_blank">Cool Couture</a>”, page 79 – 82.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1RXbWYSs5ng/T0tyFmNkHWI/AAAAAAAAA9o/zm-4vsCLXmU/s1600-h/IMG_33582.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Attaching hidden pocket to front facing and lining pieces." border="0" alt="Attaching hidden pocket to front facing and lining pieces." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_llm6ZyEKvM/T0tyGNVcfBI/AAAAAAAAA9w/13QTp3G6cLg/IMG_3358_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f2qm6yxRSa0/T0tyGjZmf8I/AAAAAAAAA94/bkqksqJLQgo/s1600-h/IMG_33622.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The completed hidden pocket." border="0" alt="The completed hidden pocket." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cyeeMZJrpZw/T0tyG4Le2-I/AAAAAAAAA-A/QttKbiavGCI/IMG_3362_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BN5a-_mfCOc/T0tyHcyIukI/AAAAAAAAA-I/LrJnYBMqgHE/s1600-h/IMG_33634.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The completed hidden pocket from the wrong side. The pocket has been tacked to the princess seam to prevent it from drooping when items are in the pocket." border="0" alt="The completed hidden pocket from the wrong side. The pocket has been tacked to the princess seam to prevent it from drooping when items are in the pocket." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aRVvGlKx85s/T0tyH-lXBXI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/m95h9JspPZc/IMG_3363_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a></p> <p>In these pictures the  pocket was stitched to the front facing as well as the front lining pieces first and then the lining and the front facing were stitched together.  In the third picture you can see the finished pocket which was tacked to the princess seam to prevent the pocket from drooping when items are in it.</p> <p>For setting the sleeve cap into the jacket I once again referred to Kenneth D. King’s book, “<a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/1589233891" target="_blank">Cool Couture</a>”, page 114 – 115, <em>Easing the Sleeve Cap.</em>  I tried using hair canvas cut on the bias for the sleeve head but didn’t like the results so opted to try polar fleece instead and the results turned out well.  Gertie also referred to this technique and uploaded a video <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/setting-in-tailored-sleeves.html" target="_blank">demonstrating the process</a> on her blog.  Here are a few pictures from my installation of the sleeve head into the lining.</p> <p>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Qg08x942G-g/T0tyIT-XgcI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/bmfnnHEYC8M/s1600-h/IMG_33692.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Stitching the polar fleece sleeve had to the sleeve of the lining." border="0" alt="Stitching the polar fleece sleeve had to the sleeve of the lining." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-qpYUU_EIV2s/T0tyIgcq8FI/AAAAAAAAA-g/ArO3tt9S9NY/IMG_3369_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iOOt9AZZtwo/T0tyI9Pz6yI/AAAAAAAAA-o/iq8bzScCaMc/s1600-h/IMG_33702.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="As you stitch the sleeve head in you stretch/pull the polar fleece and guide the sleeve." border="0" alt="As you stitch the sleeve head in you stretch/pull the polar fleece and guide the sleeve." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YeYtDEr8bBk/T0tyJVw1-zI/AAAAAAAAA-w/RRq67PNB5FY/IMG_3370_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Fjmr8QbWnJg/T0tyKDQ73cI/AAAAAAAAA-4/em-GpCnNnU0/s1600-h/IMG_33673.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="What the inside of the garment looks like with sleeve head attached." border="0" alt="What the inside of the garment looks like with sleeve head attached." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nkRaAA07S2A/T0tyLxMCihI/AAAAAAAAA_A/-ZUr2nv9o2g/IMG_3367_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-P7hIIO6_3gY/T0tyMZt-q8I/AAAAAAAAA_I/0g1VhXihz_o/s1600-h/IMG_3368%25255B1%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The results from the right side of the sleeve lining." border="0" alt="The results from the right side of the sleeve lining." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5ouQGz8O26Q/T0tyMwf_pOI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/9RdP_hLLvgI/IMG_3368_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> </p> <p>I really liked how this turned out and will use this technique on future projects.  The results are amazing and don’t require the standard two rows of gathering stitches thus saving you time.</p> <p>Here are several pictures of the finished jacket lining with the wrong side showing.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AeyEmBsdMUM/T0tyNaF7XYI/AAAAAAAAA_Y/KHYP_eBpgEo/s1600-h/IMG_3371%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Back of the completed lining with the wrong side facing out." border="0" alt="Back of the completed lining with the wrong side facing out." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IcgkKPCbj5k/T0tyNjIwIVI/AAAAAAAAA_g/3v1cLwLFK2U/IMG_3371_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-__oZXxxU0Go/T0tyOIDuKMI/AAAAAAAAA_o/5bIaVMhlzpY/s1600-h/IMG_3373%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="View showing the sleeve and side front." border="0" alt="View showing the sleeve and side front." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sBmNWMADUcw/T0tyOR4POsI/AAAAAAAAA_w/n0UvYTkLbdo/IMG_3373_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Esi-yEk6fho/T0tyPf636HI/AAAAAAAAA_4/hJ0eRKrMbNQ/s1600-h/IMG_3374%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Front view of the finished lining." border="0" alt="Front view of the finished lining." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-dX54YHmFe4E/T0tyPiUMgdI/AAAAAAAABAA/PjCyiLAfCtY/IMG_3374_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>The right side of the jacket lining.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-y51BmVFlqxs/T0tyQAUMf8I/AAAAAAAABAI/8eOd8lM4qSg/s1600-h/IMG_3376%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Front view showing the lining right side out." border="0" alt="Front view showing the lining right side out." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qmkgrbW8xM8/T0tyRoNQpBI/AAAAAAAABAQ/INceYsm7ZSU/IMG_3376_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2FSbeAJ3OnQ/T0tySIS6AEI/AAAAAAAABAY/mfMON_2GwVg/s1600-h/IMG_3377%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Back view showing the right side of the lining." border="0" alt="Back view showing the right side of the lining." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Sms-gMRWmlg/T0tySsb8WUI/AAAAAAAABAg/S6_ZI0Bm1FU/IMG_3377_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a></p> <p>Up next…final jacket construction.</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jvwLKCnQjKA/T0tyS6MmiFI/AAAAAAAABAo/krM64l9HSiI/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; border-top: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-H6xIDc9QcG8/T0tyTVolxBI/AAAAAAAABAw/jVVWymhfhmk/Mimi%252520O_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="160" height="121" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-45709020514546442612012-02-25T19:12:00.001-05:002012-02-25T19:12:27.968-05:00Lady Grey: Work Continues<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-FuSiNHQnkdM/T0l45qmhyaI/AAAAAAAAA84/QNNEWX-BJYE/s1600-h/IMG_3349%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Back stay installed onto the wrong side of the sewn back piece." border="0" alt="Back stay installed onto the wrong side of the sewn back piece." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AzpRIooztTk/T0l46JoHGvI/AAAAAAAAA9A/AMlC3EBzY_o/IMG_3349_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> After finishing off all that lovely pad stitching, work shifted to the constructi0n of the main body pieces of my jacket.  Prior to sewing the shoulder seams I stay stitched a back stay into my jacket to help maintain the shape over the upper back and shoulder area.   This piece was fairly easy to create by tracing off the upper portion of  the sewn jacket back onto my stay material and then pinking the lower edge of the stay.  It is then stay stitched to the wrong side of the jacket back along the side, arm, shoulder and neck seams.  Then with right sides together the jacket front and back were sewn at the shoulder and side seams.  So many wonderful techniques in this SAL.</p> <p>Will be back tomorrow with underlining work and setting in my sleeves.</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iLMzVq16VwA/T0l46cMqmcI/AAAAAAAAA9I/kDIwlNBBr5w/s1600-h/MimiO4.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oFhB0ugeB2M/T0l460bdr6I/AAAAAAAAA9Q/usQoLkVU2XQ/MimiO_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="148" height="112" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-23956416788686845652012-02-19T07:20:00.001-05:002012-02-19T07:20:43.404-05:00Lady Grey: Pad Stitching and Steam Pressing the Under Collar<p>Now that the tailoring on the front of the jacket is complete the under collar is up next.  I am truly amazed at what pad stitching can do to a flat piece of fabric.  Gertie has a wonderful tutorial on her <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along?updated-max=2010-10-19T07:00:00-04:00&max-results=20" target="_blank">blog</a> if you would like a more in depth description of how to go about this technique.  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2upJOP8Wlr8/T0Do_x_ZjrI/AAAAAAAAA7E/r6H8_uKtMqk/s1600-h/IMG_33412.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The under collar with the hair canvas basted to it. The collar has been pad stitched with 1/8" stitching nearest the neck edge with 3/8" to 1/2" pad stitching as you get to the outer edge of the collar." border="0" alt="The under collar with the hair canvas basted to it. The collar has been pad stitched with 1/8" stitching nearest the neck edge with 3/8" to 1/2" pad stitching as you get to the outer edge of the collar." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5iwjQLwBM30/T0DpBvuOiLI/AAAAAAAAA7M/kw0vod9RYlw/IMG_3341_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></p> <p>Here I’ve completed the pad stitching on the collar prior to steam pressing.   You will note that I pieced my hair canvas on the under collar.  I was being frugal and didn’t want to waste so I pieced two pieces of the canvas and then cut my collar out. </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>I didn’t have a tailor’s ham so I improvised and rolled up my beach towel and pinned my collar around this make shift ham.  I also stuffed some rolled up washcloths under the collar to help create the shape I wanted.  As with the lapel, by setting the iron to the highest setting to produce the most amount of steam, you can steam shape into the pad stitched under collar by hovering the iron just above the piece and steam setting the shape into it.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fhckUwj-E28/T0DpCBWUcwI/AAAAAAAAA7U/y2bIWxdMWNQ/s1600-h/IMG_33451.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The collar on my make shift ham." border="0" alt="The collar on my make shift ham." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gd8cWCGs22k/T0DpC0RzznI/AAAAAAAAA7c/svm80Al6a2w/IMG_3345_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8ELTMIq1zRQ/T0DpDWtNc4I/AAAAAAAAA7k/gKTi6-Lwi2c/s1600-h/IMG_33432.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Added some rolled up washcloths to help put some shape into the collar prior to steaming." border="0" alt="Added some rolled up washcloths to help put some shape into the collar prior to steaming." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-25hWt03oN5g/T0DpD2dhQwI/AAAAAAAAA7s/7FAhpQbDi98/IMG_3343_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>Here you can see the results after the collar has been allowed to cool over night.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EIOxtmOi1co/T0DpEXuCqLI/AAAAAAAAA70/m37OcARXlYI/s1600-h/IMG_34181.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Just amazing how some simple pad stitching and steaming can put the shape in the collar." border="0" alt="Just amazing how some simple pad stitching and steaming can put the shape in the collar." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-SAjYORoVYIY/T0DpE44mhCI/AAAAAAAAA78/4Vxvm0y-xuU/IMG_3418_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BJT-GdCduss/T0DpFRlPq-I/AAAAAAAAA8E/EnrCvGZFEck/s1600-h/IMG_34171.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="It stands up so nicely!" border="0" alt="It stands up so nicely!" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9xSP_zByGSs/T0DpFq6ENNI/AAAAAAAAA8M/ruXkaSdtQV0/IMG_3417_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a></p> <p>Next I will be adding a back stay and constructing more of the jacket.</p> <p>Happy Sewing…</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1xocki8F1z0/T0DpGMKjanI/AAAAAAAAA8U/JVFbMp3RJuc/s1600-h/MimiO4.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xUfx8SafUHs/T0DpGknle_I/AAAAAAAAA8c/RGiTqQw50es/MimiO_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="176" height="133" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-9751912393471171642012-02-18T20:19:00.001-05:002012-02-19T07:21:46.570-05:00Lady Grey: Bound Buttonhole and Pad Stitching the Lapels<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KhyHomFy5Og/T0BNyGYwHYI/AAAAAAAAA28/uaCrxJ7JOQc/s1600-h/IMG_33142.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Button from Great-Grandma Nettie's Tin" border="0" alt="Button from Great-Grandma Nettie's Tin" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zjjKs0-UihQ/T0BNzmt7vjI/AAAAAAAAA3E/vw1Y61Fi-kY/IMG_3314_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> Prior to attaching my <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/11/lady-grey-hair-canvas-technique.html">hymo pieces</a> to the fashion fabric I needed to make a bound buttonhole.  A daunting task for which I had no experience on!  I’m not one to run away from a technique I’ve never tried before so thought I’d give it a shot on my Lady Grey coat but first I needed a button so I turned to my <strong>Great-Grandma Nettie’s</strong> tin of old buttons and pulled out this baby.   What do you think?  Obviously it isn’t “new” for there are some marks of usage on it but I really like how it is rimmed with the brown which sets it off against my black camel hair fabric.  Now that I’ve chosen my button time to tackle that bound buttonhole.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jOc8h3tN4bE/T0BN0Yeuo3I/AAAAAAAAA3M/8ecCtBBxgHs/s1600-h/IMG_33183.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Finished Bound Buttonhole" border="0" alt="Finished Bound Buttonhole" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kQUK9Rzxmrc/T0BN0xjMb1I/AAAAAAAAA3U/Yt6DwzdzPFU/IMG_3318_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  I followed the <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/bound-buttonhole-tutorial.html">tutorial for bound buttonholes</a> on <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/">Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing</a>.    There are some techniques I will practice but this seemed straight forward and pretty basic so…Living on the Wild Side…I made my first bound buttonhole right on my Lady Grey jacket.  I think it came out pretty good for my first time… </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7yhCZ0inxbE/T0BN2DRsSuI/AAAAAAAAA3c/0R4pzcBvE3Y/s1600-h/IMG_33151.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Interfacing marked for buttonhole and organza square pinned to right side of fabric and butterfly squares basted together for insertion." border="0" alt="Interfacing marked for buttonhole and organza square pinned to right side of fabric and butterfly squares basted together for insertion." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-S_A1F4dGhd4/T0BN3l5RkfI/AAAAAAAAA3k/JbH3Jdb9hU0/IMG_3315_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="185" height="141" /></a>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Zp67J12k2f0/T0BN4Onpi_I/AAAAAAAAA3s/38kyU-ME2u4/s1600-h/IMG_33191.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Backside of completed bound buttonhole." border="0" alt="Backside of completed bound buttonhole." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eSB8sAI4IjY/T0BN4QWuY5I/AAAAAAAAA30/cgSQZS7rOfU/IMG_3319_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="188" height="145" /></a> </p> <p>Moving forward I have layered my hymo pieces onto the wrong side of my fashion fabric and started the basting and pad stitching.  For this I have used Gutermann’s black silk thread I picked up in Joann Fabrics.  I have actually used the whole 110 yard spool….WOW…who would have thought there was that much hand work in attaching the hymo and pad stitching the lapels and under collar.  I may have pad stitched more heavily than usual, I am truly amazed at the results.  After steaming the lapels they look great and they are maintaining their shape beautifully.  I really like the crispness that the hymo brings to my jacket front and now understand why a “custom-made, tailored item” costs so much!!!  All that work is definitely worth the effect that results from the pad stitching.</p> <p>Here are pictures of my pad stitching work:<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DUszSW4_kes/T0BN484AgsI/AAAAAAAAA38/lujWyNZVd_k/s1600-h/IMG_332314.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Front jacket lapels with hair canvas basted to the fashion fabric with the 1/4" tape basted to the roll line." border="0" alt="Front jacket lapels with hair canvas basted to the fashion fabric with the 1/4" tape basted to the roll line." align="left" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aqUfCfirLQ8/T0BN5fg2KQI/AAAAAAAAA4E/sCnSK_n6t2A/IMG_3323_thumb12.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a></p> <p> </p> <p>In these photos I basted my <br />1/4” tape along the roll line and <br />marked my stitching lines to <br />help guide me while pad stitching <br />the lapel.<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Y07jXfnmiJ0/T0BN5nEa2bI/AAAAAAAAA4M/5HZAiuJ5-6A/s1600-h/IMG_332411.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Marked the hair canvas for the pad stitching guidelines." border="0" alt="Marked the hair canvas for the pad stitching guidelines." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Lj-pHfHhiWU/T0BN7TKv0tI/AAAAAAAAA4U/AhRaFW2G10A/IMG_3324_thumb9.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> You can see a more in depth <br />description of tailoring the <br />front of your jacket on Gertie’s <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com" target="_blank">blog</a> </p> <p><a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-one.html" target="_blank">Tailoring Jacket #1</a> <br /><a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-two.html" target="_blank">Tailoring Jacket #2</a> <br /><a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-three.html" target="_blank">Tailoring Jacket #3</a>       <br /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rnD0MDAQY6k/T0BN78W2S9I/AAAAAAAAA8o/vlXIQs4Tb_c/s1600-h/IMG_33266.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Once pad stitched you can see how the fabric has adjusted with the pad stitching." border="0" alt="Once pad stitched you can see how the fabric has adjusted with the pad stitching." align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-f0wPlKnQvb4/T0BN8CvCeeI/AAAAAAAAA4k/RxhknFJvzQ8/IMG_3326_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="239" height="314" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rnD0MDAQY6k/T0BN78W2S9I/AAAAAAAAA8s/PfRGXemBPWE/s1600-h/IMG_33265.jpg"></a></p> <p>In the following photos below you can see what the pad stitching helps you accomplish.  The pad stitching has created a nice line where the collar will roll and lay back nicely.</p> <p>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-q93QZHLFGCE/T0BN9fC7aoI/AAAAAAAAA40/m1suEAZwZHo/s1600-h/IMG_33275.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Preparing the lapel for steam pressing." border="0" alt="Preparing the lapel for steam pressing." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aAUVkAZU9T0/T0BN9ylkPII/AAAAAAAAA48/P3_DcMn3Dfs/IMG_3327_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AWpAgQRehKU/T0BN-Z72RYI/AAAAAAAAA5E/siZtTmu16_E/s1600-h/IMG_33294.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The pad stitched lapel on the dress form." border="0" alt="The pad stitched lapel on the dress form." src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LeqzXLOmfsc/T0BN-o-OYUI/AAAAAAAAA5M/KzFX1YNhWck/IMG_3329_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ch3xIAOeQ4g/T0BN_DQJmTI/AAAAAAAAA5U/9XvJkAldrPE/s1600-h/IMG_33307.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Handy little helper...my wooden spoon!" border="0" alt="Handy little helper...my wooden spoon!" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-r6MAcUve0JQ/T0BN_qHGB2I/AAAAAAAAA5c/WdM_Qo-PC9Y/IMG_3330_thumb5.jpg?imgmax=800" width="251" height="193" /></a>   I used the handle on my wooden spoon to aide me in my stitching where it was hard for me to get my fingers under the collar.</p> <p> </p> <p>These photos show you how the collar lapel wants to roll back.  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Q7bckhLcVyw/T0BOAPQvTqI/AAAAAAAAA5k/mAum1ZpsWYE/s1600-h/IMG_33346.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Setting up the lapel for steam pressing by placing rolled bath towels under the lapel prior to steaming." border="0" alt="Setting up the lapel for steam pressing by placing rolled bath towels under the lapel prior to steaming." align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6w8GiacolzY/T0BOAhR2zYI/AAAAAAAAA5s/a131d-sKiDA/IMG_3334_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="271" height="206" /></a>After completing my stitching I took and rolled up a bath towel and placed it under the lapel.  Setting your iron so that it will steam, hover the iron above the lapel and steam up and down your roll line and then outwards to the edges of the collar.  Do not press the iron onto the collar you just want to steam the collar and then allow this to dry overnight to set the collar.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FtXerg6XUfs/T0BOBM0S1eI/AAAAAAAAA8w/4yB2VP12MKw/s1600-h/IMG_33316.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="The collar after steam pressing and left to cool overnight." border="0" alt="The collar after steam pressing and left to cool overnight." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-B-ZG6e80Hl8/T0BOBpBK16I/AAAAAAAAA58/7_M3_j9w6c8/IMG_3331_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  </p> <p>   <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gAuoMChe9f4/T0BOCPj1IKI/AAAAAAAAA6E/z9oNVnos_cI/s1600-h/IMG_33336.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="What the lapel looks like once it has been steam pressed." border="0" alt="What the lapel looks like once it has been steam pressed." align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vHaBewcKZ9w/T0BOCujGfAI/AAAAAAAAA6M/gyEFpYl94_E/IMG_3333_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="267" height="203" /></a> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FtXerg6XUfs/T0BOBM0S1eI/AAAAAAAAA80/ILdfx_ErAFs/s1600-h/IMG_33314.jpg"></a></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p align="center">Here are both lapels with the pad stitching complete after being steamed and set.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7QxSkqJE0TY/T0BODnNEIoI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/zaufQUqDPXY/s1600-h/IMG_33386.jpg"></a></p> <img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: block; float: none; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: auto" title="Both lapels with the pad stitching complete after being steams and set." border="0" alt="Both lapels with the pad stitching complete after being steams and set." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-trhpBqrCL18/T0BOEtyMmfI/AAAAAAAAA6g/UQc6ZYZfANU/IMG_3338_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" width="269" height="354" /> <p>Up next…pad stitching and steaming the under collar.</p> <p>Happy Sewing!!!</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eOva6VFbSls/T0BOE7Ar40I/AAAAAAAAA6o/M-qfGrdAPTc/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-53hrkK1r8fY/T0BOGTr4iUI/AAAAAAAAA60/Rk2iOGkJahY/Mimi%252520O_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="169" height="128" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-64803297417863139722012-02-13T13:19:00.001-05:002012-02-13T13:19:19.545-05:00New Year’s Resolutions….<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CNS_yKBUvmA/TzlUEFjbU3I/AAAAAAAAA2U/qTzhCYnSjRA/s1600-h/IMG_01131d11.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Happy New Year's" border="0" alt="Happy New Year's" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lWqioAIjONQ/TzlUFKchFdI/AAAAAAAAA2c/BPwVhYvlEo4/IMG_01131d_thumb9.jpg?imgmax=800" width="140" height="244" /></a> So here we are…it has been over a year since my last post and now I am resolved to be a better blogger!  First up on my list of things to change is to get ALL and I mean ALL of my blog posts done for my <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/10/muslin-means-workugh.html" target="_blank">Lady Grey Jacket</a>.  It was a fantastic sew along but I definitely fell short in completing the posting on this particular project.   I don’t know how some of my fellow bloggers make the time to get all their posting done and live a life on top of that.  I must be lacking somewhere for it seems that there is never enough time in one day to get everything I want to do accomplished.</p> <p></p> <p>Second…I need to finish my UFO knitting projects.   <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/10/update-1-olympic-reindeer-hat.html" target="_blank">The Olympic Reindeer Hat</a> and my <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/10/october-fun-mystery-sock-clue-1.html" target="_blank">Mystery Sock KAL</a>.  Boy, I am bad…these projects were from the later part of 2010!  YIKES!!!  Along with this my DD has made a request that I crochet her another quick Beanie to match her new snowmobiling outfit she received from her boyfriend on Christmas.  She isn’t alone in her requests for the bf has made one of his own as well…he would like a new black, knitted toque.  And the projects pile on ;-)</p> <p><a href="http://vpll.wordpress.com/2011/11/24/the-1912-project/" target="_blank"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Image courtesy of VPLL" border="0" alt="Image courtesy of VPLL" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nd0ILOxC5Es/TzlUF6euD-I/AAAAAAAAA2k/oIDk365uYlE/image%25255B5%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="112" height="244" /></a></p> <p>Last but not least is my latest venture back into the world of sewing.  I was reading an interesting <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/22260/sew-vintage-with-the-1912-project" target="_blank">article on the Threads Magazine</a> website which lead me to a blog post on <a href="http://vpll.wordpress.com/2011/11/24/the-1912-project/" target="_blank">Vintage Fashionista</a> that had made a request for test sewers for a special project.  I am now officially a member of Group #28, of <a href="http://vpll1912project.org/" target="_blank">The 1912 Project</a> and am looking forward to receiving my patterns and beginning work soon on sewing vintage fashions. </p> <p>Until then…</p> <p>Happy Sewing!!!</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ki2E2LTcH8M/TzlUG0gDYNI/AAAAAAAAA2s/JTZP-nt3g1U/s1600-h/Mimi%252520O%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NuiiTfqiIWw/TzlUId6TudI/AAAAAAAAA20/8OsvzIHZeg8/Mimi%252520O_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="240" height="180" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-12595040460489454702010-11-01T13:04:00.001-04:002010-11-01T13:07:33.750-04:00Lady Grey: Hair Canvas Technique<p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y4S6HSoI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/LkMP-5_H65g/s1600-h/IMG_3321%5B6%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y5OKOYQI/AAAAAAAAA0U/yCSkKmWju40/IMG_3321_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> My odyssey continues with the <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">Lady Grey Sew-Along</a> and sewing the hair canvas to my side front and front coat pieces.  I have chosen a different technique for sewing my hair canvas in then what Gertie used on her blog, <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/" target="_blank">Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing</a>.   I didn’t like the thought of the added weight of the hymo (hair canvas) in my seams; the technique I utilized is attributed to <a href="http://www.kennethdking.com/" target="_blank">Kenneth D. King</a> from his book, <a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/1589233891" target="_blank">Cool Couture.</a>   On page seventeen there is an information box titled “Installing Hymo the Easy Way” the author states:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>Here’s an alternative to working with fusible interfacings – a method you<a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/1589233891"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Cool Couture by Kenneth D. King" border="0" alt="Cool Couture by Kenneth D. King" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y5WSXzUI/AAAAAAAAA0Y/tO3Gcv6k9Xw/CoolCoutureBook%5B11%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="167" height="193" /></a> can use in tailoring or whenever you want to avoid stiffening a seam.  </em>  </p> </blockquote> <p>Basically your side front and front pieces are cut out of the hymo (hair canvas) as well as a “<em>thin, cheap fabric</em>.”  I utilized my prewashed white muslin.  You layer the pieces together and then sew a serpentine stitch one inch in from the sewing edge (if you don’t have a serpentine stitch you could use a zig-zag). You then trim the hymo seam allowance back to the stitching and flip the piece over and cut out the center area of the muslin leaving the hymo showing through like a window.  This will be the side you lay down against the wrong side of the fashion fabric and baste.</p> <p>Pictures of the Process:</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y6VsrZXI/AAAAAAAAA0c/BtqnnV8mrvE/s1600-h/IMG_3301%5B12%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Hymo & Muslin" border="0" alt="Hymo & Muslin" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y62eVQwI/AAAAAAAAA0g/EAd0yrCheaM/IMG_3301_thumb%5B8%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>   <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y7dq60tI/AAAAAAAAA0k/l40pI_nyjD8/s1600-h/IMG_3302%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Serpentine Stitching the Layers" border="0" alt="Serpentine Stitching the Layers" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y70d9TMI/AAAAAAAAA0o/i-ehXPkObFc/IMG_3302_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y8cDHH8I/AAAAAAAAA0s/A4ZnarHdcOU/s1600-h/IMG_3303%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Front and Back of completed piece" border="0" alt="Front and Back of completed piece" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y8gpd7CI/AAAAAAAAA0w/gyR8gBm5Ic4/IMG_3303_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y9H6qOrI/AAAAAAAAA00/4HJa99C_6g8/s1600-h/IMG_3306%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Trim hymo back to serpentine stitching" border="0" alt="Trim hymo back to serpentine stitching" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y9nRQYvI/AAAAAAAAA04/yI4_MhxaXcs/IMG_3306_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>  <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y92P8Z0I/AAAAAAAAA08/txj4NZp5ZRA/s1600-h/IMG_3308%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="The hymo is revealed once the center muslin is cut out." border="0" alt="The hymo is revealed once the center muslin is cut out." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y-ZA_iPI/AAAAAAAAA1A/CUgPY7Io-PU/IMG_3308_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y-8VjxHI/AAAAAAAAA1E/nDSIbKi3pIA/s1600-h/IMG_3320%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Hymo trimmed away at the seam allowance." border="0" alt="Hymo trimmed away at the seam allowance." src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7y_dKr3tI/AAAAAAAAA1I/96qzjTzxSQ4/IMG_3320_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244" /></a> </p> <p>When your garment is constructed and the seams are sewn the only material that gets caught in the seam allowance will be your fashion fabric and the thin, cheap fabric thus allowing your seams to not get bulked up by the hymo.  This process worked out nicely with my jacket.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zAHTs-XI/AAAAAAAAA1M/JF4XfGoys4A/s1600-h/IMG_3309%5B6%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Front lapel piece with shoulder area reinforced." border="0" alt="Front lapel piece with shoulder area reinforced." align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zAhkygWI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/KzxrVEVRS0Q/IMG_3309_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> I also choose to add more support in the shoulder and followed the directions from <em>“The Tailored Shoulder”</em> chapter on page 117 in which I added shields to stiffen the shoulder and armhole area on the front of the jacket.  Three layers of progressively smaller shields are cut out of the hymo alternating the grain/cross-grain of each shield. They are layered and then serpentine stitched as a whole to your front hymo piece.</p> <p>Photos of  Shoulder Shields:</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zBgeTQrI/AAAAAAAAA1U/7SRXmYDR01U/s1600-h/IMG_3310%5B5%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Three layers of shields serpentined stitched for added shoulder support." border="0" alt="Three layers of shields serpentined stitched for added shoulder support." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zCCt7HAI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/B4Em84v_Iog/IMG_3310_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zC_ZjVMI/AAAAAAAAA1c/Vv2dBbqRZbk/s1600-h/IMG_3311%5B7%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Window side of hymo showing shoulder area" border="0" alt="Window side of hymo showing shoulder area" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zDRcsQ_I/AAAAAAAAA1g/7uxie0XlfF8/IMG_3311_thumb%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184" /></a> </p> <p>Moving along… I have basted my hymo pieces to the fashion fabric and completed all of  my pad stitching which I will show you in my next post along with my bound buttonhole.</p> <p><em><strong>Note:</strong> Remember to do your buttonhole prior to attaching your hymo (hair canvas) to your fashion fabric.</em></p> <p>~Happy Sewing`</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zDzkx2TI/AAAAAAAAA1k/IKfAlO1TR8A/s1600-h/Mimi%20O%5B4%5D.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TM7zEKBrYMI/AAAAAAAAA1o/cAqNAV4yIOg/Mimi%20O_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="111" height="38" /></a></p> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2405072245070820142.post-49013762338698278102010-10-27T14:25:00.001-04:002010-10-27T14:52:53.084-04:00Of Migraines and Muslins…<p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhugw5zAyI/AAAAAAAAAzg/oRijreFghHk/s1600-h/muslin03_a%5B7%5D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="" border="0" alt="" align="left" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhuhARI9eI/AAAAAAAAAzk/HHIO-fEZNzs/muslin03_a_thumb%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="160" height="244" /></a> I unfortunately suffer from migraine headaches and last week I had a doosey which put me out of commission for five days.  Usually it only lasts three days but I had to use two different meds which do have their side effects and take a little while to move out of your system.  This put me even further behind in my “<a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/Lady%20Grey%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">Lady Grey Sew-Along</a>” coat project and <a href="http://throughtheloops.typepad.com/" target="_blank">Through the Loops</a> Mystery Sock KAL but by the weekend I was finally able to stand having the curtains open and working near a light source during the evening.   It was nice to remove the sunglasses that had been my friend for the previous five days.</p> <p>As far as muslins go I sewed up a THIRD muslin because I wasn’t quite satisfied with my <a href="http://mimi-ohs.blogspot.com/2010/10/muslin-means-workugh.html" target="_blank">second one</a>.  The jacket was still pulling and was a  little bit tight in spots.  I figured that with a lining/interlining it would be even tighter so I opted to sew the third muslin; in doing so I ran out of muslin so used this black cotton/poly print.  It isn’t the prettiest fabric in the world but I’m not planning on wearing it.  I made further changes to adjust the back for my scoliosis issues.  In addition to my previous adjustments  I  made a 1/4” broad back adjustment, I dropped the curve on the front<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhuiLsxO6I/AAAAAAAAAzo/c3SQgNOK0nA/s1600-h/muslin03_b%5B6%5D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Back View of Muslin #3" border="0" alt="Back View of Muslin #3" align="right" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhui75n5rI/AAAAAAAAAzs/r0pxHb7goaI/muslin03_b_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="177" height="244" /></a> princess seam by 1/2” which in turn causes you to raise the waistline up 1/2” and then raise the lower armhole 1/2” on the side front piece of the jacket grading it back in.  I adjusted my dart to compensate for these changes.  I also increased the width of my sleeve by 3/4” and adjusted the placement of my easement dots on my front and back pieces by 3/8”.  I corrected the side front/side back pieces at the side seams dropping the  armhole depth 3/4” grading it back in.</p> <p>I am finally satisfied with the results.  I might do some minor tweaking on the left side back/back seam in the fashion fabric due to there being a little more material there than I want due to my back adjustments for my right side.  I might leave it alone because the weight of the wool fabric may pull it down and allow it to hang better than the cotton muslin plus I want to be able to wear winter sweaters under this coat and would like room to move easily in it.</p> <p>That’s it for now…I have moved on to cutting my wool fashion fabric and basting my hair canvas onto the side front and front pieces.  Looking forward to doing some pad stitching today, will post more about that later.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhukOHU9fI/AAAAAAAAA0A/kKF-9hWBIvM/s1600-h/muslin03_c%5B13%5D.jpg"><img style="border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right: 0px" title="Side View of Muslin #3" border="0" alt="Side View of Muslin #3" align="right" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhukiAHJgI/AAAAAAAAA0E/Z1qY7WHXi0I/muslin03_c_thumb%5B9%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="169" height="244" /></a> Happy Sewing!! </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhulQ0KT-I/AAAAAAAAAz4/ULh0Y8_rKxk/s1600-h/MimiO17.jpg"><img style="border-right-width: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" title="Mimi O" border="0" alt="Mimi O" align="left" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XdKRREnajhY/TMhul2W_4iI/AAAAAAAAAz8/Zkp7zThg-cE/MimiO_thumb15.jpg?imgmax=800" width="96" height="41" /></a> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p><em>References used for pattern adjustments:</em></p> <ol> <li><em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0896895742" target="_blank">Pattern Fitting with Confidence</a> (Pivot & Slide Method): <a href="http://nancyzieman.com/" target="_blank">Nancy Zieman</a></em></li> <li><em><a href="http://astore.amazon.com/mio0d-20/detail/0935278656" target="_blank">Fit for Real People</a>: <a href="http://www.palmerpletsch.com/" target="_blank">Palmer & Pletsch</a></em><em></em></li> <li><em>The Complete Book of Sewing: DK Publishing, pgs. 26 – 33, 94 – 105</em></li> </ol> mimi ohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.com4