I unfortunately suffer from migraine headaches and last week I had a doosey which put me out of commission for five days. Usually it only lasts three days but I had to use two different meds which do have their side effects and take a little while to move out of your system. This put me even further behind in my “Lady Grey Sew-Along” coat project and Through the Loops Mystery Sock KAL but by the weekend I was finally able to stand having the curtains open and working near a light source during the evening. It was nice to remove the sunglasses that had been my friend for the previous five days.
As far as muslins go I sewed up a THIRD muslin because I wasn’t quite satisfied with my second one. The jacket was still pulling and was a little bit tight in spots. I figured that with a lining/interlining it would be even tighter so I opted to sew the third muslin; in doing so I ran out of muslin so used this black cotton/poly print. It isn’t the prettiest fabric in the world but I’m not planning on wearing it. I made further changes to adjust the back for my scoliosis issues. In addition to my previous adjustments I made a 1/4” broad back adjustment, I dropped the curve on the front princess seam by 1/2” which in turn causes you to raise the waistline up 1/2” and then raise the lower armhole 1/2” on the side front piece of the jacket grading it back in. I adjusted my dart to compensate for these changes. I also increased the width of my sleeve by 3/4” and adjusted the placement of my easement dots on my front and back pieces by 3/8”. I corrected the side front/side back pieces at the side seams dropping the armhole depth 3/4” grading it back in.
I am finally satisfied with the results. I might do some minor tweaking on the left side back/back seam in the fashion fabric due to there being a little more material there than I want due to my back adjustments for my right side. I might leave it alone because the weight of the wool fabric may pull it down and allow it to hang better than the cotton muslin plus I want to be able to wear winter sweaters under this coat and would like room to move easily in it.
That’s it for now…I have moved on to cutting my wool fashion fabric and basting my hair canvas onto the side front and front pieces. Looking forward to doing some pad stitching today, will post more about that later.
References used for pattern adjustments: