~ Mimi's Adventures in Crafting ~

The musings and adventures of a "forty-something" wife and mother whose inner-artisan has been reignited. Enter my realm and enjoy....

Monday, February 27, 2012

Lady Grey: Lining

Side front lining underlined with flannel.

Wanting to add some extra warmth to my jacket I underlined all of my lining pieces with a flannel fabric.  I basted the pieces by hand first then stitched 1/2” around all edges and finished the raw edges with the serger.  The lining was then constructed. 






I also modified my coat pattern to include a hidden pocket on the left front side.  I just happen to love all the pockets that are on men’s apparel and feel ladies apparel is sometimes lacking in this department.  I wanted the extra pocket for my sunglasses, cell phone, lip balm, etc.  I utilized a technique which I had discovered in Kenneth D. King’s book, “Cool Couture”, page 79 – 82.

Attaching hidden pocket to front facing and lining pieces.

The completed hidden pocket. The completed hidden pocket from the wrong side.  The pocket has been tacked to the princess seam to prevent it from drooping when items are in the pocket.

In these pictures the  pocket was stitched to the front facing as well as the front lining pieces first and then the lining and the front facing were stitched together.  In the third picture you can see the finished pocket which was tacked to the princess seam to prevent the pocket from drooping when items are in it.

For setting the sleeve cap into the jacket I once again referred to Kenneth D. King’s book, “Cool Couture”, page 114 – 115, Easing the Sleeve Cap.  I tried using hair canvas cut on the bias for the sleeve head but didn’t like the results so opted to try polar fleece instead and the results turned out well.  Gertie also referred to this technique and uploaded a video demonstrating the process on her blog.  Here are a few pictures from my installation of the sleeve head into the lining.

  Stitching the polar fleece sleeve had to the sleeve of the lining.  As you stitch the sleeve head in you stretch/pull the polar fleece and guide the sleeve. 

What the inside of the garment looks like with sleeve head attached.  The results from the right side of the sleeve lining.

I really liked how this turned out and will use this technique on future projects.  The results are amazing and don’t require the standard two rows of gathering stitches thus saving you time.

Here are several pictures of the finished jacket lining with the wrong side showing.

Back of the completed lining with the wrong side facing out.  View showing the sleeve and side front.

Front view of the finished lining.

The right side of the jacket lining.

Front view showing the lining right side out.  Back view showing the right side of the lining.

Up next…final jacket construction.

Happy Sewing…

Mimi O

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Lady Grey: Work Continues

Back stay installed onto the wrong side of the sewn back piece. After finishing off all that lovely pad stitching, work shifted to the constructi0n of the main body pieces of my jacket.  Prior to sewing the shoulder seams I stay stitched a back stay into my jacket to help maintain the shape over the upper back and shoulder area.   This piece was fairly easy to create by tracing off the upper portion of  the sewn jacket back onto my stay material and then pinking the lower edge of the stay.  It is then stay stitched to the wrong side of the jacket back along the side, arm, shoulder and neck seams.  Then with right sides together the jacket front and back were sewn at the shoulder and side seams.  So many wonderful techniques in this SAL.

Will be back tomorrow with underlining work and setting in my sleeves.

Happy Sewing…

Mimi O

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Lady Grey: Pad Stitching and Steam Pressing the Under Collar

Now that the tailoring on the front of the jacket is complete the under collar is up next.  I am truly amazed at what pad stitching can do to a flat piece of fabric.  Gertie has a wonderful tutorial on her blog if you would like a more in depth description of how to go about this technique.  The under collar with the hair canvas basted to it.  The collar has been pad stitched with 1/8" stitching nearest the neck edge with 3/8" to  1/2" pad stitching as you get to the outer edge of the collar.

Here I’ve completed the pad stitching on the collar prior to steam pressing.   You will note that I pieced my hair canvas on the under collar.  I was being frugal and didn’t want to waste so I pieced two pieces of the canvas and then cut my collar out.



I didn’t have a tailor’s ham so I improvised and rolled up my beach towel and pinned my collar around this make shift ham.  I also stuffed some rolled up washcloths under the collar to help create the shape I wanted.  As with the lapel, by setting the iron to the highest setting to produce the most amount of steam, you can steam shape into the pad stitched under collar by hovering the iron just above the piece and steam setting the shape into it.

The collar on my make shift ham. Added some rolled up washcloths to help put some shape into the collar prior to steaming.

Here you can see the results after the collar has been allowed to cool over night.

Just amazing how some simple pad stitching and steaming can put the shape in the collar. It stands up so nicely!

Next I will be adding a back stay and constructing more of the jacket.

Happy Sewing…

Mimi O

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Lady Grey: Bound Buttonhole and Pad Stitching the Lapels

Button from Great-Grandma Nettie's Tin Prior to attaching my hymo pieces to the fashion fabric I needed to make a bound buttonhole.  A daunting task for which I had no experience on!  I’m not one to run away from a technique I’ve never tried before so thought I’d give it a shot on my Lady Grey coat but first I needed a button so I turned to my Great-Grandma Nettie’s tin of old buttons and pulled out this baby.   What do you think?  Obviously it isn’t “new” for there are some marks of usage on it but I really like how it is rimmed with the brown which sets it off against my black camel hair fabric.  Now that I’ve chosen my button time to tackle that bound buttonhole.

Finished Bound Buttonhole  I followed the tutorial for bound buttonholes on Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing.    There are some techniques I will practice but this seemed straight forward and pretty basic so…Living on the Wild Side…I made my first bound buttonhole right on my Lady Grey jacket.  I think it came out pretty good for my first time…

Interfacing marked for buttonhole and organza square pinned to right side of fabric and butterfly squares basted together for insertion.  Backside of completed bound buttonhole.

Moving forward I have layered my hymo pieces onto the wrong side of my fashion fabric and started the basting and pad stitching.  For this I have used Gutermann’s black silk thread I picked up in Joann Fabrics.  I have actually used the whole 110 yard spool….WOW…who would have thought there was that much hand work in attaching the hymo and pad stitching the lapels and under collar.  I may have pad stitched more heavily than usual, I am truly amazed at the results.  After steaming the lapels they look great and they are maintaining their shape beautifully.  I really like the crispness that the hymo brings to my jacket front and now understand why a “custom-made, tailored item” costs so much!!!  All that work is definitely worth the effect that results from the pad stitching.

Here are pictures of my pad stitching work:Front jacket lapels with hair canvas basted to the fashion fabric with the 1/4" tape basted to the roll line.


In these photos I basted my
1/4” tape along the roll line and
marked my stitching lines to
help guide me while pad stitching
the lapel.Marked the hair canvas for the pad stitching guidelines. You can see a more in depth
description of tailoring the
front of your jacket on Gertie’s blog 

Tailoring Jacket #1
Tailoring Jacket #2
Tailoring Jacket #3      




 Once pad stitched you can see how the fabric has adjusted with the pad stitching.

In the following photos below you can see what the pad stitching helps you accomplish.  The pad stitching has created a nice line where the collar will roll and lay back nicely.

  Preparing the lapel for steam pressing. The pad stitched lapel on the dress form.

Handy little helper...my wooden spoon!   I used the handle on my wooden spoon to aide me in my stitching where it was hard for me to get my fingers under the collar.


These photos show you how the collar lapel wants to roll back.  Setting up the lapel for steam pressing by placing rolled bath towels under the lapel prior to steaming.After completing my stitching I took and rolled up a bath towel and placed it under the lapel.  Setting your iron so that it will steam, hover the iron above the lapel and steam up and down your roll line and then outwards to the edges of the collar.  Do not press the iron onto the collar you just want to steam the collar and then allow this to dry overnight to set the collar.

The collar after steam pressing and left to cool overnight. 

   What the lapel looks like once it has been steam pressed.







Here are both lapels with the pad stitching complete after being steamed and set.

Both lapels with the pad stitching complete after being steams and set.

Up next…pad stitching and steaming the under collar.

Happy Sewing!!!

Mimi O

Monday, February 13, 2012

New Year’s Resolutions….

Happy New Year's So here we are…it has been over a year since my last post and now I am resolved to be a better blogger!  First up on my list of things to change is to get ALL and I mean ALL of my blog posts done for my Lady Grey Jacket.  It was a fantastic sew along but I definitely fell short in completing the posting on this particular project.   I don’t know how some of my fellow bloggers make the time to get all their posting done and live a life on top of that.  I must be lacking somewhere for it seems that there is never enough time in one day to get everything I want to do accomplished.

Second…I need to finish my UFO knitting projects.   The Olympic Reindeer Hat and my Mystery Sock KAL.  Boy, I am bad…these projects were from the later part of 2010!  YIKES!!!  Along with this my DD has made a request that I crochet her another quick Beanie to match her new snowmobiling outfit she received from her boyfriend on Christmas.  She isn’t alone in her requests for the bf has made one of his own as well…he would like a new black, knitted toque.  And the projects pile on ;-)

Image courtesy of VPLL

Last but not least is my latest venture back into the world of sewing.  I was reading an interesting article on the Threads Magazine website which lead me to a blog post on Vintage Fashionista that had made a request for test sewers for a special project.  I am now officially a member of Group #28, of The 1912 Project and am looking forward to receiving my patterns and beginning work soon on sewing vintage fashions.

Until then…

Happy Sewing!!!

Mimi O

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