Wanting to add some extra warmth to my jacket I underlined all of my lining pieces with a flannel fabric. I basted the pieces by hand first then stitched 1/2” around all edges and finished the raw edges with the serger. The lining was then constructed.
I also modified my coat pattern to include a hidden pocket on the left front side. I just happen to love all the pockets that are on men’s apparel and feel ladies apparel is sometimes lacking in this department. I wanted the extra pocket for my sunglasses, cell phone, lip balm, etc. I utilized a technique which I had discovered in Kenneth D. King’s book, “Cool Couture”, page 79 – 82.
In these pictures the pocket was stitched to the front facing as well as the front lining pieces first and then the lining and the front facing were stitched together. In the third picture you can see the finished pocket which was tacked to the princess seam to prevent the pocket from drooping when items are in it.
For setting the sleeve cap into the jacket I once again referred to Kenneth D. King’s book, “Cool Couture”, page 114 – 115, Easing the Sleeve Cap. I tried using hair canvas cut on the bias for the sleeve head but didn’t like the results so opted to try polar fleece instead and the results turned out well. Gertie also referred to this technique and uploaded a video demonstrating the process on her blog. Here are a few pictures from my installation of the sleeve head into the lining.
I really liked how this turned out and will use this technique on future projects. The results are amazing and don’t require the standard two rows of gathering stitches thus saving you time.
Here are several pictures of the finished jacket lining with the wrong side showing.
The right side of the jacket lining.
Up next…final jacket construction.