~ Mimi's Adventures in Crafting ~

The musings and adventures of a "forty-something" wife and mother whose inner-artisan has been reignited. Enter my realm and enjoy....

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Lady Grey: Pad Stitching and Steam Pressing the Under Collar

Now that the tailoring on the front of the jacket is complete the under collar is up next.  I am truly amazed at what pad stitching can do to a flat piece of fabric.  Gertie has a wonderful tutorial on her blog if you would like a more in depth description of how to go about this technique.  The under collar with the hair canvas basted to it.  The collar has been pad stitched with 1/8" stitching nearest the neck edge with 3/8" to  1/2" pad stitching as you get to the outer edge of the collar.

Here I’ve completed the pad stitching on the collar prior to steam pressing.   You will note that I pieced my hair canvas on the under collar.  I was being frugal and didn’t want to waste so I pieced two pieces of the canvas and then cut my collar out.



I didn’t have a tailor’s ham so I improvised and rolled up my beach towel and pinned my collar around this make shift ham.  I also stuffed some rolled up washcloths under the collar to help create the shape I wanted.  As with the lapel, by setting the iron to the highest setting to produce the most amount of steam, you can steam shape into the pad stitched under collar by hovering the iron just above the piece and steam setting the shape into it.

The collar on my make shift ham. Added some rolled up washcloths to help put some shape into the collar prior to steaming.

Here you can see the results after the collar has been allowed to cool over night.

Just amazing how some simple pad stitching and steaming can put the shape in the collar. It stands up so nicely!

Next I will be adding a back stay and constructing more of the jacket.

Happy Sewing…

Mimi O

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