VPLL Review for Princess Slip # 0336

1. Pattern Name:  Princess Slip # 0336
   
2. Sewer’s Skill Level:  Advanced
   
3. Pattern Rating:  I would rate this pattern a 4.  It was fairly easy to put together, the insertion lace and pleating are what make this project more challenging.  I enjoyed sewing it and would probably make this again in the future but with a more modern flare to it.  After seeing how my slip came out I would even consider sewing one as a wedding dress by adding a pastel colored slip under it to match the ribbon used on the slip.  I kept my version as close to the original except for alterations.
   
4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? My personal feeling as to who could sew this slip;  I feel it is intended for someone with at least some basic sewing experience under their belt.  The pattern itself is very easy to sew consisting of four main pieces and could be put together quickly without any difficulties.  Where this pattern is for the more experienced sewer is with the lace insertion techniques along with the pleating.
   
5. Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed?
   Honestly, I really didn’t follow the instructions but in reading the directions that came with the pattern they followed a natural progression through the making of the garment.  One step that I would change was that I found it easier to do the insertion lace on the upper side front pieces first prior to sewing the front princess seams.  Additionally, a better description on how to sew the front and back princess seams and in dealing with the points would be helpful to beginner sewers.  I mentioned this in my post Slip Basics, Insertion & Embroidery.  I also found the directions for attaching the flounce to be a bit repetitive and found it easier to attach the flounce in the manner I chose in the post Flouncing Around.  I believe stitching the flounce directly to the slip and then placing the insertion lace over the seam to be a bit bulky and a lot of extra sewing the gets taken out.  My method seemed easier.  I also preferred using 1/4” double-fold bias binding on the armhole instead of just turning the seam allowance under for it made for a cleaner finish.
   
6. How was the fit/sizing?  Did it correspond to what you thought?
   The fit and sizing were ok but I adjusted for my measurements.  The pattern illustration leads you to believe that the slip is fitted at the top above the bust but I found, as with other participants, there to be excess fabric here that gets drawn up with the eyelet trim.
   
7. Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
   I adjusted this pattern for my sizing increasing the bust and making other adjustments to accommodate my back.  A more detailed description of these adjustments can be found in the post Adjusting the Princess Slip for Me, Myself & I.  As with other participants that sewed this pattern, they too found that there was too much fabric around the neckline.  Of course, without any alterations to the pattern, this extra fabric would allow for a range of bust sizes to fit the pattern.  That could be the original intent of the designer being as this was published in a magazine to be utilized by the masses.  In my muslin fitting stage I also didn’t like the placement of the side seams and the shoulder seams, both being more towards the back and I adjusted the pattern to bring them back on center for the sides and forward on the shoulder.  I also created facings for the center back placket being as I did not like how the original directions handled the closure.  A detailed description of this can be found on my post A Tale of Two Backs.  The alterations were made to make the pattern fit more comfortably for me while maintaining the original design qualities.
   
8. Other notes:
   The pattern directions offer a notation to a resource for an excellent tutorial on how to make accordion pleats, while this notation is helpful it would be better to have this information placed within the slip directions being as not everyone has access to the book or can afford to buy an additional resource to complete the slip.
   
9. Materials Used & Cost:
   Sometimes it is helpful to know how much someone paid to make a project in order to decide if that would make a feasible project for themselves.  For this project you could spend a considerable amount of money on the insertion lace if you wanted to stick with totally authentic materials.  I, on the other hand, tried to create a nice garment while staying within a reasonable budget.  What follows is my breakdown of materials and cost (cost includes sale prices received and sales tax).  I only priced the slip for what materials were utilized not for a whole package or yardage that was purchased.
   

   Size	Description	Use	Yardage	Cost
   1 1/2”	Double Scalloped Edge Lace	Insertion	7	$ 9.64
   3/4”	Cluny Lace	Insertion	5 1/2	$ 7.57
   1 1/2”	Scallop Rose Lace	Armhole Trim	1 1/2	$ 4.80
   5/8”	Cluny Eyelet Trim	Neckline Trim	1 1/2	$ 6.23
   3/8”	Pink Satin Ribbon	Insertion	7	$ 2.42
   1/8”	Pink Satin Ribbon	Neck/Armhole	3	$ 0.16
   1 1/2”	Pink Satin Ribbon	Neckline, gathered	3	$ 1.25
   1/4”	Cream Satin Ribbon	Neckline, Finish	1 1/2	$ 0.08
   1/4”	Double-Fold Bias Binding	Armhole Finish	1 1/2	$ 0.78
   36”	Muslin	Slip & Flounce	7	$  7.28
   1/2 pkg.	Fuse N’ Tear	Embroidery	-	$  2.18
   2	Hook & Eye	Slip Closure	-	$ 0.17
   10	5/8” Buttons from Great-Grandma Nettie’s Button Tin	Slip Closure	-	$  0.00
   -	Beige Thread from personal stash	-	-	$  0.00
   -	Pink Embroidery Thread from personal stash	-	-	$  0.00
   			Total Cost:	$ 42.56

   
   
10. Final Thoughts:
    This was a fun project which took more time than I anticipated.  My best estimate as to time expended was approximately 44 hours over a two month time period.  Now that I have completed this project and have discovered the pitfalls that happened with me, at some point in the future, I will make this pattern again as a modern day dress or wedding gown.   It is my hope other participants in the 1912 Sewing Project will give the Princess Slip Pattern # 0336 a shot and make something wonderful from it.  There have been many beautiful projects so far…looking forward to many more.

Happy Sewing….