Slip Basics, Insertion & Embroidery

In the continuation of the construction of the Princess Slip pattern # 0336  for the VPLL 1912 sewing project work commenced on the front portion of the slip.  Prior to construction I performed the following tasks:

• Cut 1 CF, 2 SF, 2 SB, 2 CB and 2 CB Facings(self-made pattern)
• Stay-stitched the neckline of CF, SF, SB, CB and armholes
• Stay-stitched SF along points 26, 27 going beyond those points
• Stay-stitched SB along points 31, 32 going beyond those points
• Fray-checked into point 27 and point 32, let it dry and clipped to stay-stitching
• Serged all raw edges and wove the tails into the serged stitching
• Throughout the entire project one of the MOST important steps to perform is PRESSING.  So many sewists’ projects end in failure due to the lack of proper pressing.   My process involves stitching the seam, pressing while flat then pressing open or as in some cases pressing the seam to one side or the other.
• Starch, H2O spray bottle and a pressing cloth are necessary tools as well.

My fabric choice for this project was muslin.  It is 100% cotton and would have been utilized during the 1912 time period and was an economical choice.  I usually purchase my muslin from Jo-Ann’s when I have a 50% off coupon.  A great time to buy the whole bolt.  My fabric was pre-washed and shrunk in the dryer prior to cutting and then pressed thoroughly prior to lay-out.  As far as the directions for this project…I read them but then put my slip together in my own order.

First up…inserting lace into the center front piece.   I had purchased lace but was not satisfied with the look it created on the garment so went back to the drawing board and searched out new lace.  This project requires an extensive amount of insertion which can cause it to become an extremely “pricey” project.  Not an option for me.  Right before Easter I stumbled on a lovely 1 1/2” scalloped, poly/cotton blend lace at Wal-Mart and then ventured on over to Jo-Ann’s and discovered a nice 3/4” lace for the princess seams and a 5/8” eyelet for the neckline.  My original ribbon choice was rose but I could not find any locally so settled for a shade of pink.  I also added some extra difficulty to this project by adding machine embroidery in pink on each side of the insertion.

Here is my center front piece with the insertion lace along with the embroidered stitching to the left and right of the insertion.  In the construction process I first stitched down the insertion along the center front and then utilized some iron-on, tear-away stabilizer prior to stitching the embroidery.  Prior to trimming open the front insertion I fray-checked the top edge just to ensure the edge didn’t ravel easily.

Prior to sewing the princess seams I sewed the insertion and 3/4” lace onto the upper, side-front pieces.  The princess seams were sewn next.  This requires a little fin-angling at points 26 and 27 where the area was previously stay-stitched and fray-checked.  Below are some pics showing how this area is pinned and sewed.

 

 

 

I sewed only from the seam allowance point at the neckline through point 27 down to the base of the slip.  I did not sew through the neckline to the raw edge.  This allows both pieces to be turned easily at the seam line when it is turned under to finish.  I did the same process on the back pieces as well.  A recommendation for the front seam is to start at the neckline matching up seam line points and reinforcing prior to stitching further then stitch through your clipped point on to the point where the horizontal insertion lace is marked, back stitch then switch to a basting stitch for the remainder of the seam, press flat and then press seam open.  The 3/4” lace was inserted over the princess seam. 

I need to offer another piece of advice here…

If your insertion lace is less than 1” wide you need to carefully move the princess seam to one side on the wrong-side while the insertion lace is stitched down otherwise it will get caught.  Once done with stitching your princess seam insertion lace down you can now easily open that seam due to the basting stitching.  Press the seams and finish according to insertion lace directions.  I fray-checked at the top of the princess insertion prior to opening the seam as well.

The horizontal insertion lace was stitched down at the bust and opened as in previous steps and then a row of embroidery was added at the neckline.  Placement was placed based upon the width’s of my eyelet and 3/4” insertion lace. 

With the front complete, on the horizon, the back…I will leave that for my next post.

Enjoy your day and as always, Happy Sewing….